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Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop Wide - 49490 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Truck - CC-01 Chassis:


  Released by Tamiya on April 23, 2008, this shaft driven 4WD Tamiya CC-01 ("XC" Cross Country) Chassis based, self assembly Radio Controlled model, is of the Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop Wide truck.

Tamiya Pajero

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  This CC-01 chassis was first used on the Mitsubishi Pajero (#58132) in 1993 and over the years more than thirty Radio Controlled models, including this one, have been based on this tough, durable design.

  To build, the Truck was simple and straightforward. The step by step instruction and assembly manual, provided in the kit by Tamiya, sets out each stage of the trucks construction in easy to follow diagrammatic detail.

  The 4WD bathtub CC-01 chassis employs two orbital gear differentials, coil spring over oil filled shock absorbers and dog-bone drive shafts. The front and rear gearboxes are linked via a steel universal jointed prop shaft.

  Like the vast majority of Tamiya models, the kit comes with plastic/nylon and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually abrade the metal drive shafts that spin in them. If you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero # 49490 CC-01
Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero # 49490 CC-01
Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero # 49490 CC-01 - Chassis
Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero # 49490 CC-01 Chassis
Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero # 49490 CC-01 - Chassis
Tamiya CC-01 Chassis Rear

Buying a Used Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero
Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Electric Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Mitsubishi Pajero model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Mitsubishi Pajero Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Mitsubishi Pajero steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Mitsubishi Pajero model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

My First National

   When I first started in RC, way back in the late 1980s, I would turn up to the weekly club meeting, with my Tamiya Boomerang, Acoms transmitter, two sets of crystals, a couple of 7.2v batteries, a charger and a tool box with a wheel spanner and a few spares.
   It was three five minute qualifying rounds and a final, and every month we would have a trophy meeting. The trophies were donated by a two of the older semi professional guys who basically ran the club and over the years had collected what must have been hundreds of trophies and had no space for them anymore. The lure of a trophy always brought out the "not as enthusiastic types" and the small church function room was always packed on those nights.
   About a year in, my collection of B final trophies was beginning to clutter my room, and my dad bought me the new Tamiya Manta Ray. That was the big turning point in my RC career.
   From then on it was A finals all the way. Then one day in the summer of 1992 the club organisers (the semi pro guys) asked me if I would like to go to a BIG national meeting way down south in Malvern. I asked my dad and with a bit of prompting he said "why not".
   When we got to that meeting we found there were around a hundred competitors, with ten groups of ten. I was in group "H". a two of my friends went down with us and they were in group "I" so were on just before me.

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Hints, Tips and Information

For Those New to RC


   For those starting in Radio Controlled Racing, I have prepared a number of articles with some useful Hints, Tips and Advice, based on my many years of experience in the sport.

   The categories include Battery information, Motor advice, ESC history, Servo choice, Setting your gears, Ball joints, plus many more.

   Entering the world of RC Racing can be a scary, so there are also articles relating to my own personal experience on entering the sport, and how, with determination and practice, you can progress to the higher levels of competition.

   To see the full list of our Radio Controlled Model Hints, Tips and Information, check out the list on the RC Scrapyard Homepage. ▶ ▶








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