Team Associated RC10 B4.1 - 9038 / 9039

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2010, the 2WD RC10B4.1 Buggy RTR - # 9038 - came with a Reedy 17T motor, XP SC200 ESC, SHV1504 MG metal gear servo and XP3-SS 2.4Ghz 3-channel radio system.

   A B4.1 Brushless RTR Buggy - # 9039 - was also available, with Reedy 3300kV brushless motor, XP SC450-BL ESC with LiPo cutoff, SHV1504 MG metal gear servo and XP3-SS 2.4Ghz 3-channel radio system.

   In 2012 two more RTR models were released. The B4.1 Brushless NiMh Combo - # 9039C - with the same motor and ESC, but with an XP 2.4Ghz radio system and Reedy 3000mAh WolfPack battery and the B4.1 Brushless LiPo Combo - # 9039LC - with a Reedy 3000mAh WolfPack LiPo battery and Reedy 526-S AC/DC LiPo/LiFe Balance Charger.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

2010 RC10B4.1 2.4GHz RTR

   The B4.1 is based on a molded plastic chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers (Blue anodised), Stealth gearbox, dogbone drive-shafts, turnbuckles, servo saver, slipper clutch and ball bearings.

Model Versions:

• #9038 RC10B4.1 2.4GHz RTR (with Brushed Motor)
• #9039 RC10B4.1 2.4GHz RTR (with Brushless Motor)

RTR Features:

• XP3-SS 2.4 GHz 3-channel radio system with SHV1504 MG metal gear servo
• 2.6:1 ratio gearbox with sealed gear differential, dual-sided adjustable slipper clutch, and rubber sealed ball bearings
• Molded composite low-CG chassis with set-screw antenna tube lock
• Blue aluminum shock bodies with molded pre-load clips
• Battery strap with twist-lock thumb knobs
• Steel turnbuckles for adjustable camber and front toe-in
• Angled bellcrank "co-planar" steering with built-in servo saver
• Vertical ball ends for roll center adjustments, front and rear
• Factory-finished Interceptor 2.0 polycarbonate body
• Pre-mounted tires on white dish wheels

2010 RC10 B4.1 - Box Art:

   RC10 B4.1 RTR Brushed Motor Box - # 9038.



   RC10 B4.1 RTR Brushless Motor Box - # 9039.



   RC10 B4.1 RTR LiPo Battery and Charger Combo Box - # 9039LC.



   Note the top right hand corner of the boxes above. Early B4.1 boxes showed the 24 times World Champion emblem, Later versions changed to a 26 times emblem.



   RC10 B4.1 RTR Box Side.

2010 RC10 B4.1 - Bodyshells:

   RC10 B4.1 Brushed Motor version pre-painted Interceptor 2.0 bodyshell.



   RC10 B4.1 Brushless Motor version pre-painted Interceptor 2.0 bodyshell.

2010 RC10 B4.1 - RTR Equipment:

   Included with the B4.1 #9038 is a Reedy 17T Motor, XP SC200 ESC, SHV1504 MG Servo and XP3-SS 2.4Ghz Radio System.



   Included with the B4.1 #9039 is a Reedy 3300kV Brushless Motor, XP SC450-BL ESC, SHV1504 MG Servo and XP3-SS 2.4Ghz Radio System.

2010 RC10 B4.1 Chassis:

   RC10 B4.1 RTR Chassis.



   Front end and Blue anodised shock absorbers.



   Rear View.



   Bellcrank "co-planar" steering.



   Black plastic gear cover.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers

   ESC were originally developed to be used in conjunction with brushed 27T stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s. Compared to modern day Controllers, they were Bulky and heavy, constructed using basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors and transistors, crammed together on a simple circuit board, to provide stepped but smooth acceleration when compared to the old mechanical, servo operated sweeper Speed Controllers. An Electronic Switch to change the direction of current flow was used on some of these early ESC to give reverse operation. Although they were a vast improvement on the old mechanical speedos of the time, they were expensive, jerky to control, and prone to burn out if not carefully looked after.

   As new technology became available, improvements were slowly made, and with the introduction of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) and some basic mass produced silicon chips, ESC were made smaller and their reliability gradually improved.

   By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" was developed. This meant that energy that would have been lost slowing down the car by effectively turning the motor into a generator, was harvested and put back into the battery. This of course was long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was introduced.

Wheel Camber - for cornering stability

   Camber is described as the angle of the wheel as you look at it directly from the front or rear of your car and if set correctly will improve your cars cornering ability considerably, by providing increased traction. This simple to make adjustment is considered by many to be one of the most effective changes you can make to your car for better handling.

   Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel is angled outwards. Negative Camber has the top of the wheel angled inwards.

   First of all, get yourself a good camber gauge. All adjustments to your cars camber setting should be made with the car in race mode that means the motor, battery etc in position in the chassis.

   To check the angle of an On Road car, it must have the ride height already set to around 5mm.