Team Associated RC10B74 Team - 90026 - Radio Controlled Model

   Released by Team Associated in 2019, the 4WD RC10B74 Team Buggy Kit - # 90026 - was a complete re-design, with a long list of new and innovative features, aimed at grass track and indoor carpet racing RC enthusiasts. A motor, esc, battery, charger and radio system were required to complete.

   The B74 Team is shaft driven, on a hard anodised alloy plate chassis, with front and rear gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled "Big Bore" dampers, anti roll bars, slipper-clutch (can be replaced by a central differential), CVA universal joint drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

   To get the best from the Team Associated RC10B74 Team, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.

Model Version:

• #90026 RC10B74 Team

Features:

• CHASSIS:
• 2mm hard-anodized 7075-T6 aluminum chassis provides improved flex characteristics and minimal mass
• 2.5mm graphite center bulkhead brace for improved stiffness and reduced mass
• STEERING:
• Ball bearing raced 7075-T6 aluminum steering rack and composite steering bellcranks with 2.5mm graphite input arm offers optimized Ackermann and adjustable steering rate
• New steering blocks with larger outer ball bearing and increased bearing spacing for improved durability
• DIFFS AND SLIPPER:
• Quick-change adjustable differential height with 7075-T6 aluminum bulkheads. Four independent front and rear diff heights possible
• Easy-access differentials for worry-free maintenance and adjustment
• Fluid-filled gear differentials with machined ring gears, front and rear
• Updated 3-pad slipper assembly allows use of center differential without changing center bone length
• SUSPENSION:
• Optimized suspension arm geometry with improved durability and stiffness
• New symmetric rear arms with improved geometry can be flipped to allow a "split" for rear shock mounting position
• 7075-T6 aluminum arm mounts with optimized roll center positions use inserts, which allow fine tuning for a large range of anti-squat, kick-up, and toe adjustments
• Common front and rear anti-roll bars to minimize spare part count
• Anti-roll bar sets for both carpet/turf and dirt included
• SHOCKS:
• 4mm graphite shock towers front and rear for improved stiffness and durability
• V2 12mm Big Bore threaded aluminum shock with X-rings for low friction assembly
• New shock lengths front and rear with longer stroke allows increased droop and up-travel for more consistent jumping and landing
• Machined shock pistons for more precise fit and smoother operation
• V2 12mm shock springs for lower achievable ride height and more nimble feel
• OTHER FEATURES:
• CVA assemblies for center drive-line with aligned shafts for minimal torque loss and improved efficiency
• New rear hub assembly with modular vertical ball stud camber link mounts and axle height system for precise roll center adjustments
• Outer rear hinge pins captured with bolt head and lock nut for increased durability
• 7075-T6 aluminum motor mount and 7075-T6 aluminum center bulkhead have increased rigidity to maintain more accurate gear mesh
• New 2.5mm graphite battery strap with sliding support tabs for fine tuning battery position (accepts any R.O.A.R. approved 2S "shorty" packs)
• 7075-T6 aluminum 9 degree caster blocks
• "Floating" servo mount with 7075-T6 aluminum mount and 2.5mm graphite brace
• Factory Team ball bearing set with 26 precision ball bearings, now oiled instead of greased for more efficient drivetrain
• Aluminum clamping wheel hexes, front and rear
• Lightweight clear body and clear wing included

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Painting a Lexan Body Shell.

   Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside, and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used.

   The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour, and add some choice decals later.

   This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before, and need some basic guidance.


   Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can.

   Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen.
Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside.

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.