Team Associated RC10T3 - 1997 - Radio Controlled Model

   Introduced by Team Associated in 1997, the 2WD RC10T3 was available in 3 kit options: # 7003 - Basic, # 7013, Sport and # 7037 - Team (details listed below). The model was instantly successful, winning three consecutive NORRCA World Cups, the 1998 ROAR National Championships, as well as national and regional races the world over.

   The RC10T3 kits were updated in 2000, and ARR and RTR versions were introduced in 2001 (see Timeline, linked above).

   All RC10T3 versions are based on a molded composite chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers and slipper clutch.

1997 Kit Versions:

• #7003 RC10T3 Basic Kit, less radio system and electrical, with bushings
• #7013 RC10T3 Sport Kit, less radio system, with mechanical speed controller, motor and bushings
• #7037 RC10T3 Team Kit, less radio system and electrical, with ball bearings

Features:

• All 1997 kit versions include:
• 2.40:1 Stealth transmission for effortless power handling
• Molded composite chassis for better rigidity and Lexan T3 racing body
• Extra-long suspension arms for greater stability and travel
• Optimized front end geometry improves steering and increases rigidity and includes optional Ackerman setup
• Adjustable battery placement for fine tuning of traction or steering

• BASIC and SPORT Kit Features:
• Shocks: Gold anodized
• Wheels: Three-piece rims
• Front Tires: Wide. Pro-Line "Edge" XTM
• Rear Tires: Pro-Line "Stubby T" XTM
• Associated dogbones and stub axles

• TEAM kit Features:
• Shocks: Hard anodized, teflon coated gray
• Wheels: One-piece rims
• Front Tires: Wide. Pro-Line "Edge" XTM
• Rear Tires: Pro-Line "Mini-pin" M-2
• MIP CVD's

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Dampers

   Dampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks - call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model.

   In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks, and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track.

   In dictionary terms "Damper" is described as - "A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses." - In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track.

   Basically what you have is a small amount of silicone oil contained in a sealed cylinder. Through the centre of that cylinder is a metal rod, and on the end of that rod, a piston with a number of small holes in it. Pulling, or pushing the rod in and out of the cylinder, your will notice a certain amount of resistance as the oil is forced through the holes in the piston.

Roll Center

   One of the least understood settings on RC model cars is concept of roll center. The simple definition of roll center is a point in space that the chassis rolls from side to side as the car maneuvers around a corner.

   To calculate roll center you have to consider things like the height of the axles, the inside and outside camber link positioning, the length of the suspension arms and the location of their inside pivot point. Sounds complicated doesn't it - and in truth - it is.

   On all RC model cars, most of the cars weight is above the chassis and the center of gravity of the car is not only from front to rear, but also from top to bottom. This point is called the "true" center of gravity and is the point around which the weight of the car will want to roll from side to side, but it is the roll center of the chassis that the chassis will actually roll around, not the center of gravity.

   Once you have determined the positions of roll center and center of gravity, you can calculate the "roll moment". It is this that determines how easily the chassis will roll from side to side.

The Effect of Roll Center on your Car

   But what does all this mean? I hear you ask. Well, it gives you some insight to what changing the position of your camber links can do to the way your car handles.