1/10 Scale Electric Truck/Truggy:

Team Associated T4.1 RTR - 7036 / 7037 - Radio Controlled Model

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History and Information for the T4.1:

Introduced by Team Associated in late 2009, the 2WD RC10T4.1 RTR Truck - # 7036 - came with a Reedy 17T brushed motor and an XP SC200 ESC. The RC10T4.1 Brushless RTR Truck - # 7037 - came with a Reedy 3300kV brushless motor and XP SC450-BL ESC, both also came with an XP3-SS 2.4Ghz 3-channel radio system.

In 2012 two more RTR versions were released. The T4.1 Brushless NiMh Combo - # 7037C - with the same motor and ESC, but with an XP 2.4Ghz radio system, Reedy 3000mAh WolfPack battery and a wall charger. The T4.1 Brushless LiPo Combo - # 7037LC - came with a Reedy 3000mAh WolfPack LiPo battery and Reedy 526-S AC/DC LiPo/LiFe Balance Charger.

Team Associated T4.1 Truck

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The T4.1 molded composite chassis, employs a gear type differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive shafts, slipper clutch and a full set of ball bearings.

Model Versions:

#7036 RC10T4.1 RTR - with radio system, ESC, brushed motor and ball bearings
#7037 RC10T4.1 Brushless RTR - with radio system, ESC, brushless motor and ball bearings
#7037C RC10T4.1 Brushless RTR NiMh Combo - with radio system, ESC, brushless motor, NiMh battery, charger and ball bearings
#7037LC RC10T4.1 Brushless RTR LiPo Combo - with radio system, ESC, brushless motor, LiPo battery, balance charger and ball bearings

Features:

All Versions Include:
Built on the 7-time National Champion RC10T4 platform
2.6:1 ratio gearbox with sealed gear differential, dual-sided adjustable slipper clutch, and rubber sealed ball bearings
Molded composite low-CG chassis with set-screw antenna tube lock
Blue aluminum shock bodies with molded pre-load clips
Battery strap with twist-lock thumb knobs
Rugged steel turnbuckles for adjustable camber and front toe-in
Angled bellcrank "co-planar" steering with built in servo saver
Vertical ball ends for roll center adjustments, front and rear
Pre-mounted tires on white dish wheels
Factory finished Interceptor-T polycarbonate body

Brushed Motor Version Features:
XP SC200 electronic speed control with LiPo cutoff, forward and reverse with reverse lock out
Reedy 17-turn motor
XP3-SS 2.4 GHz 3-channel radio system with SHV1504 MG metal gear servo

Brushless Motor Versions Features:
XP SC450-BL Brushless electronic speed control with LiPo cutoff, forward and reverse with reverse lock out
Reedy 3300kV brushless motor
XP3-SS 2.4 GHz 3-channel radio system w/ SHV1504MG metal gear servo
Wall Charger (NiMh version) - Reedy 526-S AC/DC LiPo/LiFe Balance Charger (LiPo version)

(Source: Media press release + RC10T4.1 Manual)

RC10 T4.1 RTR - 7036 / 7037
Manual

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Radio Controlled Model Accessories:

★ RC10T4.1 Box Art ★

★ RC10T4.1 Box Sides ★

★ RC10T4.1 Chassis ★

★ RC10T4.1 RTR 7036 ★

★ RC10T4.1 Angled bellcrank steering ★

★ RC10T4.1 Battery Strap ★

★ RC10T4.1 Rear Shock Mount ★

★ RC10T4.1 2.6:1 ratio gearbox ★

★ RC10T4.1 Gear Cover ★

★ RC10T4.1 Gear Differential ★

Buying a Used Team Associated T4.1 Truck (and What to look for)

There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Team Associated T4.1 Electric Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Team Associated website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
When you receive your used Team Associated Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

Next, for those Team Associated models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

If the body shell of your Team Associated T4.1 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your T4.1 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

If you intend to race your T4.1 Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
The T4.1 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

If body roll on your Team Associated T4.1 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

If your used Team Associated Truck came with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

Finally, good luck with your T4.1 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

RC Information and Advice:

Hints, Tips and Information

How to Drift your RC Car

   Drifting is the greatest fun you can have on four wheels, but it isn't as easy as it might look. There are lots of different methods and ideas on how it should be done and it takes lots of practice to get it right.

   On the street or in the parking lot, drifting is fine, but until you have had hours and hours of practice to master the technique, don't try it on your local race track. If you don't have the total control of your car, you will not make many friends amongst your immediate competitors.

   Controlled Drifting is a beautiful thing when done correctly, and in this article I will endeavour to give you a few pointers on where to start. After that, your own personal style will soon blossom.

   As I mentioned before, there are a number of different ideas about drifting, but basically this is what you do.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Slipper Clutch and Hydra-Drive

   More often installed on Off-Road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor.

   The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount.

   Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference.

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