Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Truck/Truggy:

Team Associated RC10 T4.2 Factory Team - 7025 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Information for the T4.2 Factory Team:

  Introduced by Team Associated in 2013, the 2WD RC10T4.2 Factory Team Kit - # 7025 - was designed and optimised for top level racing.

  The T4.2 FT molded composite chassis, employs a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled "Big Bore" dampers, CVA driveshafts, VTS slipper clutch, titanium turnbuckles, a full set of ball bearings and a Pro-Line Bulldog bodyshell.

Team Associated T4.2 (RC10T4.2) Factory Team - 1:10 Electric RC Truck

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  To race the Team Associated T4.2 FT, you need to tweak and adjust all you can to give your car improved handling, stability and grip to ease around the curves and keep you on the track. One little setting change can transform your car into a world beater. Just follow our chart to attain the most favourable Set-up to suit your particular needs on any track.

Model Version:

  • #7025 RC10T4.2 FT Kit - less all electrical, with ball bearings

Features:

  • Factory Team 12mm Big Bore hard-anodized aluminum threaded shocks with TiN "Gold" 3mm shock shafts
  • VTS slipper (variable torque, multi-plate slipper with three drive surfaces) assembly featuring a high-resolution spring
  • Factory Team 12mm blue aluminum front and rear clamping hexes with hex wheels
  • Pro-Line Bulldog body
  • Factory Team 7075-T6 blue aluminum 0 deg. rear hubs with oversized outer bearing
  • Factory Team blue aluminum bellcrank set
  • Updated shock towers optimized for the 12mm Big Bore shocks
  • Ball differential with light-weight outdrives
  • Factory Team blue titanium turnbuckles
  • Factory Team carbon-fiber battery strap and blue aluminum thumb screws
  • CVA joints with pin retainer clips
  • Factory Team rear ballast weight
  • Complete set of precision ball bearings

(Source: Media press release + RC10T4.2 FT Manual)











Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Box Art ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Box
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Front ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Steering block ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team Alloy and carbon rear hub ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team 12mm Big Bore shocks ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis
★ RC10T4.2 Factory Team VTS slipper clutch ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 Factory Team Chassis

Buying a Used Team Associated T4.2 Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Team Associated T4.2 Electric Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Team Associated website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Team Associated Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Team Associated models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Team Associated T4.2 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your T4.2 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your T4.2 Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The T4.2 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Team Associated T4.2 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Team Associated Truck came with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your T4.2 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Keeping Notes

   If all you will ever do is go racing at your local track every week, then this article is not for you. However, if you ever look towards travelling around to different tracks around the country, or even the world, the value of keeping notes is all too obvious.

   Every time I raced in a regional or national competition meeting, I would make detailed notes, aided by a little local knowledge initially, and later fine tuned to suit my own driving style.

   My experience now means there are few, if any outdoor tarmac tracks within a 300 mile radius I haven't been to, and my notes on motor, gearing, camber angles, shock settings, tire choice and what inserts work best for that particular track, amongst others, allow me to save valuable time on the finer points of car setup, that can be done in the warmth of my own home on the kitchen table days before the meeting, instead of the often crippling heat, or the arduous conditions inside a wind blown tent.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Efficient Soldering

   In the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering.

   For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, as you advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is.

   Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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