Team Associated RC10 T4 RS (Race Spec) - 7024 - Radio Controlled Model

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2006, the 2WD RC10T4 RS (Race Spec) Truck - # 7024 - was an upgraded RTR version of the T4, and came with a Reedy Radon 17T motor, LRP Ai ESC, AE XP2 radio system and ball bearings.

   The T4 RS moulded composite chassis, employs a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, slipper clutch, dogbone drive-shafts, dish-style wheels, with high-traction V-patern front and all-terrain racing-compound tires and a full set of ball bearings.

Model Version:

• #7024 RC10T4 RS RTR - with radio system, ESC, motor and ball bearings

Features:

• Reedy Radon 17-turn electric motor, installed.
• Team Associated XP2 radio system.
• Blue aluminum shocks.
• Your choice of two prepainted body color schemes, red or blue.
• Trailing front axle or optional inline steering blocks can be used to tune steering response.
• Angled bellcrank steering minimizes bump steer to maintain constant steering angles throughout the full range of suspension travel.
• Front shocks are mounted behind the shock tower. All four suspension arms utilize a captured hinge pin design that uses no E-clips.
• New 2.6:1 laydown transmission now uses the higher torque capacity differential from the RC10GT. Ultra-compact, efficient, low-CG design.
• Longer dogbones and axles have been designed into the rear suspension to push the T4 out to maximum legal width for more traction.
• High torque capacity, double-sided slipper provides finer adjustment, easier assembly, and lower rotating mass than comparable double-sided slippers.
• Impact-resistant rear motor guard and body mounts. Lower motor, battery, shock and body mounting positions give the T4 a lower CG for higher cornering speeds and greater stability.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.

Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers

   ESC were originally developed to be used in conjunction with brushed 27T stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s. Compared to modern day Controllers, they were Bulky and heavy, constructed using basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors and transistors, crammed together on a simple circuit board, to provide stepped but smooth acceleration when compared to the old mechanical, servo operated sweeper Speed Controllers. An Electronic Switch to change the direction of current flow was used on some of these early ESC to give reverse operation. Although they were a vast improvement on the old mechanical speedos of the time, they were expensive, jerky to control, and prone to burn out if not carefully looked after.

   As new technology became available, improvements were slowly made, and with the introduction of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) and some basic mass produced silicon chips, ESC were made smaller and their reliability gradually improved.

   By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" was developed. This meant that energy that would have been lost slowing down the car by effectively turning the motor into a generator, was harvested and put back into the battery. This of course was long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was introduced.