1/10 Scale Electric Truck/Truggy:

Team Associated SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless RTR - 7081 / 7081C - Radio Controlled Model

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History and Info:

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2017, the 2WD SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless Ready-to-Run Short Course Truck - # 7081 - was a 1:10 scale replica of the truck driven by Carl Renezeder in the Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series. A Reedy brushless motor, ESC, high torque servo and 2.4GHz 2-channel radio system were included.

   A SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless RTR LiPo Combo version - # 7081C - was also available, with the same spec as above, plus a Reedy Compact Balance Charger and LiPo battery pack.

   The model is based on a molded composite chassis, with a gear type differential, V2 coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, V2 slipper clutch, steel turnbuckles and a full set of ball bearings.

Team Associated SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless RTR

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To get the best from the Team Associated SC10.3, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.

Model Versions:

#7081 SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless - RTR
#7081C SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless - Combo

Features:

8-time R.O.A.R. National Champion short-course race truck
2.4GHz 2-channel radio system with a metal-gear, digital, high-torque Reedy servo
Powerful Reedy 3300kV Brushless Motor
Water-resistant High-Power Reedy Brushless Speed Control with T-Plug connector and LiPo low-voltage cutoff
Metal-gear, high-torque Reedy digital servo
Factory-finished championship short-course racing truck body
Realistic front and rear bumpers with AE logo rear mud flaps
Short-course hex-drive wheels front and rear
High-traction compound tires pre-mounted on hex-drive wheels
Water-resistant enclosed receiver box
Blue-anodized aluminum V2 coil-over shock absorbers
2.6:1 ratio gearbox with heavy-duty sealed gear differential and externally adjustable V2 slipper clutch
Molded composite chassis and battery strap that fits NiMH and LiPo battery packs
Molded composite, low center-of-gravity chassis with increased strength
14 precision rubber sealed ball bearings
Durable front and rear body mounts
Rugged steel turnbuckles for adjustable camber and front toe-in
Fully adjustable suspension geometry
Angled bellcrank "coplanar" steering with integral servo saver
Vertical ball ends for roll center adjustments, front and rear
Many Factory Team and Reedy option parts already available!
Combo #7081C includes a Reedy Compact Balance Charger and Reedy 7.4V LiPo Battery with T-plug

(Source: Media Press Release)

SC10.3 Lucas Oil - 7081 / 7082
Manual

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Radio Controlled Model Accessories:

★ Team Associated SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless RTR Chassis ★

★ Team Associated SC10.3 Gear Differential ★

★ Team Associated SC10.3 Lucas Oil Brushless RTR Chassis ★

Buying a Used Team Associated SC10.3
Truck (and What to look for)

There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Team Associated SC10.3 Electric Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Team Associated website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
When you receive your used Team Associated Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

Next, for those Team Associated models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

If the body shell of your Team Associated SC10.3 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your SC10.3 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

If you intend to race your SC10.3 Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
The SC10.3 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

If body roll on your Team Associated SC10.3 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

If your used Team Associated Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

Finally, good luck with your SC10.3 model and good racing.

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

RC Information and Advice:

Hints, Tips and Information

Ackerman

   So - What is Ackerman?

   If you place your car on a table facing away from you and turn the steering to full lock to the left, you will notice the angle the left hand wheel has turned is more than that of the right hand wheel. That is the Ackerman effect.

   Moving your car to the edge of the table, with the wheels still on full lock, push it round a complete circle. What you will notice, is the diameter of the circle made by the inside wheel, is smaller than that of the outside wheel. This is a good thing.

   Consider what would happen if both wheels turned to the same angle. In this example, the inside wheel would have a tendency to drag sideways, making the car unstable and difficult to drive.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Ride Height

To allow the suspension on any RC model to do its work properly, it needs to ride in a position where it is able to react to any bumps and holes it may encounter on the track. Therefore, it needs to be adjusted to somewhere in-between those limits. That position is commonly termed "ground clearance" or "ride height" and is generally measured as the distance between the underside of the chassis and the ground, with the motor and battery etc installed.

Simply speaking, determining the optimum ride height is dependent on the specific track conditions and "droop" setting (see my previous article). For Off Road models the rule is simple, the bigger the bumps and the deeper the holes, the higher the ride height. And for On Road, the lower the ride height, the better.

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