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1/10 Scale Nitro Buggy:
Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Radio Controlled ModelHistory and Info:
Released by Kyosho circa 1983, the 2WD Circuit 1000, Assault - # 3095 - has an aluminum alloy ladder-frame, plastic tub chassis, with a polycarbonate bodyshell, gear differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and an OS CZ1 .12 engine.
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★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ Kyosho Assault - 3095 - Chassis ★
★ OS CZ-1 Engine ★
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Buying a Used Kyosho Assault Buggy (and What to look for)
Make a General Visual Inspection
Check the Body-Shell
If the body shell of your Kyosho Assault is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Assault model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis. Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles
Examine the Drive System
The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Pinions and Spur Gears
Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints
Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. Steering Servo and Servo-Saver
Stabilizers
If body roll on your Kyosho Assault is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. Don't Forget those Bearings
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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide
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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.
At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Rubber Tires for RC Models
Rubber Tires ALWAYS should have either soft sponge or rubber inserts. They will not function as they should without them. And if you are totally serious about your racing they should be glued to the rims. How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.
Before mounting your Tires, I would recommend talking to the more experienced racers at your local club, concerning what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Sway Bars
On most forms of RC model cars, Sway Bars, also referred to as Stabilizers, Torsion Bars, or more commonly in some parts as Anti Roll Bars, are often nothing more than a short length of spring steel, clamped to the chassis or sometimes the gearbox of the car, extending out to the lower wishbones direct or connected to the wishbones using short adjustable or fixed length links and ball joints, depending on their position. |
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