Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Nitro Touring Car:

Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1995, the Sport Racer - # 31521 - was based on the Pure-10 GP Spider Touring Car Chassis, and came as an unassembled kit, with a clear lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell, a GS-11X Engine and custom-designed muffler. A Radio System and Fuel to be purchased separately.

   The 4WD PureTen GP Spider is belt driven, on an alloy plate double deck chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over friction dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

   Check out our Kyosho Archive for other PureTen GP Spider chassis based models.

Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To get the best from the Kyosho Sport Racer, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.







Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Box ★
Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Box
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 ★
Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GP Spider - Sport Racer - 31521 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GS-11X Engine ★
Kyosho GS-11X Engine

Buying a Used Kyosho Sport Racer
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho Sport Racer Nitro Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Sport Racer is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Sport Racer model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Sport Racer Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Sport Racer steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho Sport Racer is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Sport Racer model and good racing.

▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Anti Squat

   Described as the angle at which the suspension arms pivot in relation to the chassis, Anti Squat affects traction under acceleration.

   Considered to be at its most effective from a standing start, the handling and stability of the majority of modern day On Road and an increasing number of Off Road models, can be improved with a certain amount of anti squat, normally no more than around 3 degrees.

   Basically, more anti squat gives you more traction, but after a certain point, that advantage is lost and the car will become unstable when turning into high speed corners. For Off Road models anti squat can also improve how the car handles on bumpy tracks.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Tire Compounds

   Way back in the early 1990s when I first got into RC, most of the off-road models available came with chunky hard compound block tires that gave little or no grip on grass or dirt tracks. On-road didn't have this problem as they were still using sponge tires that with a coating of wintergreen based tire additive before each race to improve grip. There was even one guy who swore, before every race, he dipped his wheels in a glass of light ale.

   Then things started to change. By the mid 1990s tire manufacturers such as Losi and Schumacher began developing smaller pin tires, in softer compounds. These mini pin versions were a revelation for grass racers, but were only a small improvement on dust tracks.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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