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Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric M-Chassis Model Car - MB-01 Chassis:


  Released by Tamiya on January 20, 2024, the Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - # 58732 - is a replica of the car that raced in European Touring Car Championship in the late 1960s, winning numerous class titles. The Tamiya model is based on the 2WD MB-01 short wheelbase M-Chassis, designed and developed to allow the owner a choice of rear-wheel drive or front-wheel drive.

  A pre-cut and pre-painted bodyshell, a 540 brushed silver can Electric Motor and an Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) are included in the kit. A Radio System, Battery and Charger to be purchased separately. (specifications may differ from country to country).

  SIDE-NOTE: Ardent Tamiya followers may remember the announcement of the Neo-Shot buggy, based on the MB-01 Chassis (# 58306) way back in 2003, that was never released.

Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - #58732 - 1:10 Electric Model Touring Car

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  The 2WD MB-01 Front or Rear Wheel Drive chassis, has three wheelbase options: 209mm - Short / 224mm - Medium / and 239mm - Long, and is based on a molded plastic chassis, with a gear type differential, coil spring over friction dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

  Like the majority of budget Tamiya models, the kit comes with plastic bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, will abrade the metal drive shafts that spin in them. If you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings on initial assembly.

  To get the best from the Tamiya MB-01 Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - Box
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer - 58732 - MB-01
Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
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Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
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Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
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Tamiya MB-01 Chassis
Tamiya MB-01 Chassis

Buying a Used Tamiya MB-01
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya MB-01 Electric Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya MB-01 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your MB-01 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your MB-01 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The MB-01 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya MB-01 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your MB-01 model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Keeping Notes

   If all you will ever do is go racing at your local track every week, then this article is not for you. However, if you ever look towards travelling around to different tracks around the country, or even the world, the value of keeping notes is all too obvious.

   Every time I raced in a regional or national competition meeting, I would make detailed notes, aided by a little local knowledge initially, and later fine tuned to suit my own driving style.

   My experience now means there are few, if any outdoor tarmac tracks within a 300 mile radius I haven't been to, and my notes on motor, gearing, camber angles, shock settings, tire choice and what inserts work best for that particular track, amongst others, allow me to save valuable time on the finer points of car setup, that can be done in the warmth of my own home on the kitchen table days before the meeting, instead of the often crippling heat, or the arduous conditions inside a wind blown tent.

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Hints, Tips and Information

How to Reduce the Weight of your RC Model Car

   If you ever step up and enter a regional, national or international event in RC, you will find one specific rule concerning the weight of your car.

   At the time this article was written, the Minimum weight restrictions for 1:10 electric Touring Cars at different events, was between 1350g and 1500g. This includes your Motor, ESC, Receiver, Battery, Body Shell and the transponder.

   Out of the box you will find the majority of 1:10 Touring Cars, with everything onboard, are way over this Minimum weight, and unless you are good enough to attract sponsors, getting your car down to anything approaching that minimum weight will be very expensive.

   There are things you can buy like micro ESC, and Receivers. But Batteries and Motors are what they are, and you have to work around them.

   To reduce the weight of your chassis, there are a number of things you can do.

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