Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Monster Truck:

Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless (2012) - 3908 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Introduced by Traxxas in 2012, the E-Maxx Brushless Monster Truck - # 3908 - was upgraded with their new TQi 2.4GHz Radio System with Docking Base and Link 5-Channel Micro Receiver, and came factory assembled RTR, with a choice of four pre-painted ProGraphix Bodyshells, a Castle Creations Mamba Monster 2200KV Motor and ESC, two 7-Cell NiMh Batteries and 6.3" Maxx-Sized Tires on Black-Chrome 3.8" Split-Spoke Wheels.

   For other E-Maxx versions, Check out our Traxxas Archive.

   The 4WD model is shaft driven, on an extended molded composite chassis (30mm longer than the original E-Maxx), with gear type differentials, 8 x coil spring over oil filled dampers, universal joint drive-shafts, a full set of ball bearings and a wheelie bar.

Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless (2012) Monster Truck - 3908

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To get the best from the Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.







Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless (2012) - 3908 Box ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless (2012) Box
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Bl 3908 Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Bl Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless Chassis
★ Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless - 3908 Chassis ★
Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless Chassis
★ Traxxas TQi Transmitter with Docking Base, Mamba Monster Motor and ESC ★
Traxxas TQi Transmitter with Docking Base, Mamba Monster Motor and ESC
★ Traxxas 7-Cell NiMh Batteries ★
Traxxas 7-Cell NiMh Batteries

Buying a Used Traxxas E-Maxx
Monster Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Traxxas E-Maxx Electric Monster Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Traxxas website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Traxxas Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Traxxas models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Traxxas E-Maxx is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your E-Maxx model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your E-Maxx Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The E-Maxx steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Traxxas E-Maxx is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Traxxas Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your E-Maxx model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Your First Race Meeting

   When you finally find a racing club near to where you live, that initial experience of stepping up onto the rostrum and looking down over the track can be very daunting. But soon, as the race starts, adrenaline will kick in and away you go. For the next five minutes, your focus is on nothing but getting your car around each corner, avoiding all the other cars on the track and just getting to the end of the race.

   Maybe your batteries dumped or you crashed and the car was damaged, perhaps you didn't actually come last, whatever happened, it doesn't really matter - you are well and truly hooked.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Bearing Seals

   If you were to ask anyone with a modicum of experience in RC, they will tell you that the best modification you can make to a basic RC model, is to add a set of ball bearings.

   Quite a few of the entrance level models at the time this article was written, come with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings. If these bearings are installed in the model and coated with grease as advised in the car manual, dust and grit can be caught in that grease and be dragged into the bearing where it can abrade the shaft that spins in it and it won't be long before it becomes a very sloppy fit, causing all kinds of problems.

   But what should you look for when buying bearings? There are a number of types of seal used on ball bearings, and there is much debate concerning which is the best for RC.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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