Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Monster Truck:

Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL (2020) - 90076-4 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Introduced by Traxxas in 2020, the Hoss 4x4 VXL TSM Monster Truck - # 90076-4 - came factory assembled RTR, with a choice of Orange or Green pre-painted Bodyshells (a Red version was introduced in 2021), a VXL-3s ESC, 540XL Brushless Motor, TQi 2.4Ghz Radio System, Sledgehammer Tires.on Black Chrome Wheess, and Traxxas Stability Management (TSM) system, developed to make it easier to control the vehicle on slippery tracks. A Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   The 4WD model is shaft driven, on a modular composite tub chassis, with planetary gear differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, telescopic universal joint drive-shafts, ball bearings and wheelie bar.

Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Monster Truck (2020) - 90076-4

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   To get the best from the Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.







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★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Box - 90076-4 ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Box
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL (2021) - 90076-4 ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL - 90076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Chassis
★ Traxxas VXL-3s ESC and 540XL Brushless Motor ★
Traxxas VXL-3s ESC and 540XL Brushless Motor

Buying a Used Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL
Monster Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL Electric Monster Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Traxxas website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Traxxas Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Traxxas models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Hoss 4x4 VXL model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Hoss 4x4 VXL Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Hoss 4x4 VXL steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Traxxas Hoss 4x4 VXL is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Traxxas Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Hoss 4x4 VXL model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

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