Radio Controlled Models
Share RCScrapyard on Facebook
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags
RCScrapyard.net contains Google and Amazon Affiliate links, which may earn us commission. See our Disclosure page for more info.
bar

1/10 Scale Electric Sprint Car:

Custom Works Enforcer (Radio Controlled Model Review)



History and Info:

   Introduced by Custom Works circa 1991, the Enforcer Sprint Car Kit - # 0921 - was based on the Intimidator on-road car and describes as being "race-ready", with an injection molded nylon Roll Cage, race proven suspension, tires, wheels and a detailed four-piece Sprint Car Body and Wing. A Radio System, Motor, ESC, Battery, Charger and Steering Servo had to be purchased separately.

   The 2WD model is based on a carbon plate chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, slide rack steering and a full set of ball bearings.

   An Enforcer 10 Conversion kit - # 0923, to turn the Associated RC10 into a Sprint Car was also introduced at around the same time, and later a Pro-Comp Enforcer version - # 0925 - was introduced, with all the available upgrades as standard.

Custom Works Enforcer Sprint Car

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To get the best from the Custom Works Enforcer, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.








Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















Flags
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer - 0921 Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer 10 - 0923 - Associated RC10 Conversion Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer 10 - 0923 - Associated RC10 Conversion Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer 10 - 0923 - Associated RC10 Conversion Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer 10 - 0923 - Associated RC10 Conversion Chassis
★ Custom Works Enforcer 10 - 0923 - Associated RC10 Conversion Chassis ★
Custom Works Enforcer 10 - 0923 - Associated RC10 Conversion Chassis

Buying a Used Custom Works Enforcer
Sprint Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Custom Works Enforcer Electric Sprint Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Custom Works website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Sprint Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Custom Works Sprint Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Custom Works models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Custom Works Enforcer is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Enforcer model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Enforcer Sprint Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Sprint Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Sprint Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Sprint Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Sprint Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Enforcer steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Custom Works Enforcer is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Custom Works Sprint Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Enforcer model and good racing.

▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

^ TOP ^












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Anti Squat

   Described as the angle at which the suspension arms pivot in relation to the chassis, Anti Squat affects traction under acceleration.

   Considered to be at its most effective from a standing start, the handling and stability of the majority of modern day On Road and an increasing number of Off Road models, can be improved with a certain amount of anti squat, normally no more than around 3 degrees.

   Basically, more anti squat gives you more traction, but after a certain point, that advantage is lost and the car will become unstable when turning into high speed corners. For Off Road models anti squat can also improve how the car handles on bumpy tracks.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Toe Angle - for Steering and Straight Line Stability

   When you first build your RC model car, you will no doubt have made all the settings advised in the manufacturers' manual and will take it out on the back yard not thinking of things like camber, caster or toe-in - I know I did. It's only when you get competitive that you start learning about these things and just what a big difference they can make to the handling of your car. One of the more effective of these adjustments is Toe-in.

   The term, toe-in, toe-out, or toe-angle, refers to the alignment of the front or rear wheels, when viewed from above. Front toe-angle is easily adjusted via the track rods or turnbuckles that link to the steering mechanism or directly to the steering servo horn. At the rear, some models like the Schumacher Mi1 can be adjusted by turnbuckles, but most models, on and off-road, have a set of hub carriers to provide the desired toe angle.

   Front toe-in reduces steering when entering a corner, but improves steering response on corner exit under acceleration.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







RC Models:
Radio
& Motors:
Other
Accessories: