Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Nitro Rally Car:

Kyosho Peugeot 306 Maxi - GP Mantis FF - 31672 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1997, the Peugeot 306 Maxi Rally Car - # 31672 - based on the Front Wheel Drive version of the PureTen GP Mantis chassis, came 90% factory assembled, with an unpainted lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell, and a GX-12 Engine. A Radio System, Fuel and Glow Starter to be purchased separately.

   The FWD 2WD GP Mantis FF model has an injection molded plastic chassis, with bolt on an alloy engine mount plate, a gear type differential, un-damped spring suspension, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

   Check out our Kyosho Archive for other Mantis chassis based models.

Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF - Peugeot 306 Maxi - 31672

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   To get the best from the Kyosho Peugeot 306 Maxi, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.







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★ Kyosho GP Mantis FF - Peugeot 306 Maxi - 31672 ★
Kyosho GP Mantis FF - Peugeot 306 Maxi - 31672
★ Kyosho GP Mantis FF - Peugeot 306 Maxi - 31672 ★
Kyosho GP Mantis FF - Peugeot 306 Maxi - 31672
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Mantis FF Chassis
★ Kyosho GX-12 Engine ★
Kyosho GX-12 Engine

Buying a Used Kyosho Peugeot 306 Maxi
Rally Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho Peugeot 306 Maxi Nitro Rally Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rally Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Rally Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Peugeot 306 Maxi is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Peugeot 306 Maxi model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Peugeot 306 Maxi Rally Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rally Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Rally Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Rally Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Rally Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Peugeot 306 Maxi steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho Peugeot 306 Maxi is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Rally Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Peugeot 306 Maxi model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Maintain your Fuel System

   Nitro engines need a regulated constant supply of fuel to run efficiently. If this supply is restricted or contaminated in any way, the engine will show problems in a number of ways.

   If your engine is running hotter than normal, begins to stutter, has trouble idling or won't even start, your first instinct would be that it is running lean, but when you try to make adjustments, it has no effect. The reasons for your problem could be a number of things, but the most likely is a fuel or fuel line problem.

   First of all visually inspect the fuel system. Check the fuel line for any kinks or tight bends that could restrict free flow. If you do find any kinks or any damage to the line, I would recommend changing it rather than trying to simply straighten it out or repairing it in any way. Any leaks you find in the system must be dealt with, if you can, replace the parts.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Look after your Gears

   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric.

   The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch.

   The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gear teeth are larger than 64dp gear teeth, therefore the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys, to help them withstand the knocks and crashes by drivers new to RC, and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

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