Tamiya German Panther Type G - 56022 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

  Released by Tamiya on March 1, 2007, the German Panther Type G (#56022) is the Full Option Kit version.

  The front-mounted gearbox contains two Type 380 motors that can operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

  At the beginning of WWII, German tanks were defeated by Russian T-34 medium tanks and in order to counter them, Germany created the Panther V and were deployed to frontlines in 1943. It featured excellent defensive abilities, had sloped armour plates, powered by a 700ps Maybach HL230P30 4-stroke V12 gasoline engine which provided them with a top speed of 55km/h.

  It was armed with a 70 calibre 7.5cm long barrelled tank gun which was as powerful as the Tiger It's 8.8cm gun. Evolved from the Type D and A, the Panther Type G was put into production from March 1944.

  Later in 1944, the Type G received more extensive modifications which included an angle-bottomed gun mantled, exhausts with flame dampers and heater units on top of the engine grilles. Overall 2,953 Panther Gs were produced until the final factory was captured by Allied forces in April 1945. The Panther G went on to serve as Germany's main battle tank until the end of the war.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

Rating: 4 RCScrapyard

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

Choosing the right Tire Inserts

   Once upon a time, all RC model tires were equal - they were all trash. None of the old tires had any kind of internal support, because the hard compound they were made of didn't need it. But that was before the newer soft compounds were developed. These new tires were so soft that if some kind of insert was not used they would just lay flat under the weight of the car. Thus, the new science of tire inserts was born.

Inserts for Off-Road Tires

   The basic soft foam inserts that come with many off-road rubber tires can be in one of two types. They can be basic rings of sponge, or the cheap and nasty strips of sponge. Many of the latest foam inserts now come pre-shaped, but more than often, they will need some work done to them before they are inserted into the tires.