Team Associated RC10 T4 Team - 7020 and RTR - 7021 - Radio Controlled Model

  Introduced by Team Associated in 2003, the 2WD RC10T4 Team Truck Kit - # 7020 - was based on the RC10B3 Buggy design, with a 2.60:1 ratio gearbox, a longer wheelbase and is 1/2 inch wider than the RC10T3.

   An RC10T4 RTR version - # 7021 - was released around the same time, with a 17-turn motor, LRP Runner ESC and Airtronics Blazer Sport Radio System . In 2004 Associated introduced the T4 Factory Team - # 7022 - and RTR T4 SE (Special Edition) - # 7023 - and in 2006 came the RTR T4 RS (Race Spec) - # 7024. (reviewed individually - pages linked below).

   The T4 and its subsequent versions were highly praised by the media and racers alike, winning a number of national and international awards, and being voted RC Car Action Reader's Choice Award in 2004, 2006, 2007 and 2008.

   Based on the B4 Buggy, the molded composite chassis of the T4, employs a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, slipper clutch, CVD drive-shafts (dogbones for RTR) and a full set of ball bearings (bushings for RTR).

Model Versions:

• #7020 RC10T4 Team Kit - less radio system and electrical, with ball bearings
• #7021 RC10T4 RTR - with radio system, ESC, motor and bushings

Features:

• Both versions include:
• Angled bellcrank steering minimizes bump steer to maintain constant steering angles throughout the full range of suspension travel.
• Trailing front axle or optional inline steering blocks can be used to tune steering response.
• Front shocks are mounted behind the shock towers. All four suspension arms utilize a "captured" hinge pin design that uses no e-clips.
• The "forward-swept" front end design provides maximum front end ground clearance.
• Chassis underside is contoured for maximum clearance when cornering, and minimal ground contact area on hard landings.
• New 2.6:1 laydown transmission now uses the higher torque capacity differential from the RC10GT. Ultra-compact, efficient, low-CG design.
• Longer CVDs dogbones and axles have been designed into the rear suspension to push the T4 out to maximum legal width for more traction.
• High torque capacity, double-sided slipper provides finer adjustment, easier assembly, and lower rotating mass than comparable double-sided slippers.
• Impact-resistant rear motor guard and body mounts.
• Lower motor, battery, shock and body mounting positions give the T4 a lower CG for higher cornering speeds and greater stability.

• Team Kit Features:
• Hard anodised shock bodies.
• CVD rear axles.
• Unpainted bodyshell.

• RTR Features:
• Shocks: Blue anodized
• Dogbone rear axles
• Painted bodyshell in Red or Blue

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

Ride Height

   To allow the suspension on any RC model to do its work properly, it needs to ride in a position where it is able to react to any bumps and holes it may encounter on the track. Therefore, it needs to be adjusted to somewhere in-between those limits. That position is commonly termed "ground clearance" or "ride height" and is generally measured as the distance between the underside of the chassis and the ground, with the motor and battery etc installed.

   Simply speaking, determining the optimum ride height is dependent on the specific track conditions and "droop" setting (see my previous article). For Off Road models the rule is simple, the bigger the bumps and the deeper the holes, the higher the ride height. And for On Road, the lower the ride height, the better.