Team Associated RC10 B4 RS - RTR (2006) 9037

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2006, the 2WD RC10B4 RS (Race Spec) - # 9037 - was an upgraded version of the B4 SE - # 9036 - and came RTR (Ready to Run) with a Reedy Radon 17T motor, an LRP Ai automatic-setup digital ESC, and the Associated XP2 radio system. Two bodyshell options were available with a revised pre-painted Flaming design, adding a touch of white to the front, and main color at the rear of Blue or Red.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

2006 RC10B4 RS RTR

   The B4 RS is based on a molded plastic chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers (Blue anodised), Stealth gearbox, dogbone drive-shafts, turnbuckles, servo saver, slipper clutch and ball bearings.

Model Version:

• #9037 RC10B4 RS (Race Spec) RTR Less battery

RTR Features:

• Reedy Radon 17-turn motor
• XP2 2-channel radio system
• LRP electronic speed control
• 2.6:1 reduction transmission
• Double-sided slipper clutch assembly
• Longer dogbone axles
• Super-low center of gravity. Motor, battery, body, wing and shocks have lower mounting positions
• Impact-absorbing wing mounts
• Racing compound front and rear tires
• Optimized front suspension/steering assembly
• Inline or trailing front axles
• Symmetrical suspension arm design with captured hinge pins. No E-clips are needed
• Steel turnbuckles
• Painted body, red or blue design. pre-painted

2006 RC10B4 RS - Box Art:

   The RC10B4 RS Box - # 9037.



   RC10B4 RS Box Sides.



   RC10B4 RS Box End.



   RC10B4 RS Box Underside.

2006 RC10B4 RS - RTR Equipment:

   Included with the B4 RS is a Team Associated XP2 radio system with TA203A Receiver, the LRP "Ai" Automatic-setup digital ESC with reverse and a Reedy Radon 17-turn motor.

2006 RC10B4 RS Chassis:

   RC10B4 RS Chassis.



   Blue anodised shock absorbers.



   The RC10B4 RS Rear View.



   Slipper Clutch.



   The RC10B4 RS gearbox, dogbone drive shaft and steel turnbuckle.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

Make your RC Model Ball Bearings Work for You

   If you are serious about your racing, looking after your bearings is essential if you are to remain competitive.
   My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC.

   Shields: The main problem with Ball Bearing Shields is they create friction, and obviously the more you can reduce friction, the more efficient your bearings will be, so here's a tip that does just that.
   Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, positioned side by side. If you think about it, the two inside shields on each bearing are not required, so ... you can remove them using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple. And in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction.