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1/10 Scale Electric Buggy:
CEN eMatrix 10-B - Radio Controlled ModelHistory and Info:
Introduced by CEN in 2013, the eMatrix-10B Buggy was available Brushless - # 10102, or Brushed 540 Motor - # 10103.
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★ CEN eMatrix 10-B Chassis ★
★ CEN eMatrix 10-B Chassis ★
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Buying a Used CEN eMatrix 10-B Buggy (and What to look for)
Make a General Visual Inspection
Check the Body-Shell
If the body shell of your CEN eMatrix 10-B is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your eMatrix 10-B model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis. Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles
Examine the Drive System
The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Pinions and Spur Gears
Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints
Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. Steering Servo and Servo-Saver
Stabilizers
If body roll on your CEN eMatrix 10-B is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. Don't Forget those Bearings
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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide
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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.
At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Soldering Battery Packs
Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.
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Hints, Tips and Information How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak PerformanceNi-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries
1/ All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.
Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries
1/ Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly. |
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