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1/10 Scale Electric Rally/Touring Car:

Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 Chassis - 30852 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1998, the PureTen EP Spider TF-3 Touring Car Chassis - # 30852 - came as an unassembled kit, with two different sets of dogbones (standard 200mm and 190mm, legal for ROAR or IFMAR), 5-spoke Narrow Wheels and Rubber Slick Tires. A lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell, Radio System, Motor, Speed Controller, Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   The re-designed Touring Force 3 model is belt driven, on an FRP double deck chassis, with improved upper deck (to allow transponder instalation), gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, alloy motor plate and a full set of 14 ball bearings.

   Check out our Kyosho Archive for other Vintage Electric Touring Car models.

Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To race the Kyosho Spider TF-3, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.







Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen EP Spider TF-3 - 30852 - Chassis

Buying a Used Kyosho Spider TF-3
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho Spider TF-3 Electric Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Spider TF-3 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Spider TF-3 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Spider TF-3 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Spider TF-3 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho Spider TF-3 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Spider TF-3 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

On Road Tires for Tarmac

   Modern day RC Model Rubber Tires for tarmac racing, generally come in wide or narrow format and in three compounds - Soft, Medium and Hard, each compound corresponding to different track temperatures.

   Inserts also come as soft, medium and hard, and are necessary to provide subtle but potentially race winning differences in grip, dependant on the grain structure of the tarmac used in the construction of the track.

   Club racers probably need just the three compound sets of tires, wide or narrow and with one particular type of insert. But if you are to venture into the world of National and International racing, you will need up to eighteen complete sets, to cover all the possible combinations of track condition, plus at least one set of wet weather tires.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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