Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Buggy:

Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1993, the 2WD Triumph Buggy - # 4301 - has a double deck chassis, that is belt driven, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, slipper clutch, anti roll bars and a full set of ball bearings.

Kyosho Triumph

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   To race the Kyosho Triumph, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.







Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 ★
Kyosho Triumph
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 ★
Kyosho Triumph
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 ★
Kyosho Triumph Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis
★ Kyosho Triumph - 4301 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Triumph

Buying a Used Kyosho Triumph Buggy (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho Triumph Electric Buggy; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Triumph is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Triumph model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Triumph Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Triumph steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho Triumph is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Triumph model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs, and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   You will need a jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side, then using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Next, with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Tire Compounds

   Way back in the early 1990s when I first got into RC, most of the off-road models available came with chunky hard compound block tires that gave little or no grip on grass or dirt tracks. On-road didn't have this problem as they were still using sponge tires that with a coating of wintergreen based tire additive before each race to improve grip. There was even one guy who swore, before every race, he dipped his wheels in a glass of light ale.

   Then things started to change. By the mid 1990s tire manufacturers such as Losi and Schumacher began developing smaller pin tires, in softer compounds. These mini pin versions were a revelation for grass racers, but were only a small improvement on dust tracks.

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