Tamiya German Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf.J - 48206 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

  Released by Tamiya on July 12, 2008, the 1/35 R/C German Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf.J (#48206) came with a 4-channel radio system.

  The lower hull has been designed using a number of RC parts. By changing the attaching angle of both left and right wheels with the equipped die-cast tension shaft, you are able to adjust the tension of the tracks. Additionally there is only one gearbox controlling both the turret rotation and gun barrel elevation.

  Throughout WWII, the Panzerkampfwagen IV including the last version the Ausf.J, had won the confidence and trust of the German troops who called it "the War Horse". When the war started going bad for the Germans in 1944, saw the beginning of production of the Panzer Ausf.J which had a simplified design with better defensive abilities. The main gun was the 7.5cm KwK 40 L48 taken from the Ausf.H and for defense against approaching enemy infantry soldiers, installed in the turret was a new hatch for throwing grenades and it continued using the borrowed schurzen from the Ausf.G. Inside the tank, the turret revolution engine was replaced by a manually operated two step operating system, with the extra space an additional fuel tank was built improving its range. The new model Ausf.J fought to the end of the war as the core of the German Tank Units along with the Panther and King Tiger tanks.

Rating: 4 RCScrapyard

Rechargeable Batteries
for RC Models

   At the time this article was written, there are four types of Rechargeable Batteries that are commonly in use for Radio Controlled Models.
Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries have been around the longest. My first stick battery, purchased way back in 1987 was rated at 1200Mah (Mili Amp Hours) and with a silver can 27 Turn motor my Tamiya Boomerang would run around in the back yard for a good seven minutes before slowly coming to a stop. Ni-Cad development continued until around 1998 to a maximum rating of around 2000Mah and matchers pack builders and battery technicians were able to put together six cell packs with voltages approaching 7.4 Volts, to give those that could afford them, an edge over the rest.

   Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries came along in the late 1990s, and by the year 2000 were available at ratings up to 3000Mah. Again, matchers and pack builders worked hard to provide the ardent racer with packs to provide that little bit of extra power, and ESC manufacturers also chipped in with improved controllers to take full advantage of this new technology.

   Now the problem wasn't gearing the car to get to the end of the race using the available battery power, but to find the brushed motor that could handle gear setting that provided the speed and acceleration without the motor overheating and wearing the commutator too much so it needed a skim after every 2 runs. My favourite at that time was the 9 Double.

   More recently, Li-Po (Lithium-Polymer) Batteries have appeared on the scene, providing are a huge step forward in performance when compared with Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh batteries.

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.