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Tamiya M-05 S-Spec Chassis - 84204 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Model Car Chassis:


  Released by Tamiya on July 16, 2011, the M-05 S-Spec Chassis kit (#84204) is No.704 in the Limited Sale Series, with blue anodised alloy parts.

Tamiya M-05 S-Spec - 1:10 Electric Touring Car Chassis

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  The 210mm wheelbase M-05 S-Spec chassis, is a version of the successful M-05 chassis and comes standard with high-performance option and exclusive parts.

  Other special features of this chassis are a number of parts, including: Alloy Rear Suspension Mount - exclusive to the S-Spec Chassis Kit. - Alloy Rear Uprights, Alloy Heat Sink Motor Plate, Counterweight/Transponder Mount, Carbon Front Damper Stay, Semi-Gloss Finish Metal-Plated Main Frame, Black Metal-Plated 11-Spoke Wheels with 60D Radial Tires and TRF Damper Short Springs (White) (Soft/Medium/Hard). A full set of steel shielded ball bearings are also provided in the kit.

  The 2WD, FWD (front wheel drive) M05 Chassis has a lower centre of gravity than previous versions and good weight distribution which coupled with four wheel independent double wishbone suspension with coil spring over oil filled shock absorbers, orbital bevel gear differential and a three piece steering linkage gives excellent stability and handling on high speed corners.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya M-05 S-Spec Chassis #84204
Tamiya M-05 S-Spec Chassis #84204 Front
Tamiya M-05 S-Spec Chassis #84204
Tamiya M-05 S-Spec Chassis #84204 Rear

Buying a Used Tamiya M-05 S-Spec
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya M-05 S-Spec Electric Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya M-05 S-Spec is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your M-05 S-Spec model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your M-05 S-Spec Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The M-05 S-Spec steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya M-05 S-Spec is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your M-05 S-Spec model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs, and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   You will need a jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side, then using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Next, with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough.

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Hints, Tips and Information

For Those New to RC


   For those starting in Radio Controlled Racing, I have prepared a number of articles with some useful Hints, Tips and Advice, based on my many years of experience in the sport.

   The categories include Battery information, Motor advice, ESC history, Servo choice, Setting your gears, Ball joints, plus many more.

   Entering the world of RC Racing can be a scary, so there are also articles relating to my own personal experience on entering the sport, and how, with determination and practice, you can progress to the higher levels of competition.

   To see the full list of our Radio Controlled Model Hints, Tips and Information, check out the list on the RC Scrapyard Homepage. ▶ ▶








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