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1/8 Scale Electric Rally/Touring Car:

Capricorn LAB E801 (Radio Controlled Model Review)



History and Info:

   Introduced by Capricorn RC circa 2014, the LAB E801 Electric Touring Car Chassis was available in two versions: Standard - able to accept all the conventional batteries and motors, and Monoblock - requiring a "TTB Version" drive set to be purchased. Both versions were available as an assembly Kit, requiring a Radio System, motor, ESC, battery, charger, servo and a Lexan bodyshell to be purchased separately.

   A C801 upgrade kit to E801 TTB (UPG-ETTB) was also available. From my research it seems an E803 2-speed model was introduced briefly circa 2018, but other than a CAD image, there is nothing more I can find.

   The 4WD model is Belt Driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with carbon top deck and damper mounts, red anodised alloy parts, rear fixed axle with dogbones, front one-way axle with universal joint drive-shafts, coil spring over oil filled dampers, servo-saver and ball bearings.

Capricorn LAB E801 On-Road

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  To get the best from the Capricorn LAB E801, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.








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★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E801 Chassis
★ Capricorn Upgrade for C801 to E801 TTB ★
Capricorn Upgrade for C801 to E801 TTB
★ Capricorn LAB E803 Two Speed Chassis ★
Capricorn LAB E803 Two Speed Chassis

Buying a Used Capricorn LAB E801
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Capricorn LAB E801 Electric Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Capricorn RC website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Capricorn Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Capricorn models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Capricorn LAB E801 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your LAB E801 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your LAB E801 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The LAB E801 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Capricorn LAB E801 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Capricorn Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your LAB E801 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Bodyshell Aerodynamics

   It is commonly understood that weight improves traction, and if you have ever seen TV coverage of any kind of full size motor racing, you will have heard the comentators talking about, aerodynamics, downforce and ground effect. Well, even though they are only a fraction of the size and weight, these terms also relate to small scale model racing cars.

   Bodyshell aerodynamics for RC model cars is a science in itself, and the wrong one could loose you the race. Back in my day the shell to have for 1:10 on-road, was the Alfa Romeo 156.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs, and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   You will need a jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side, then using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Next, with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough.

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