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1/10 Scale Electric Rock Crawler:

Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition (2011) - 5607A - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Introduced by Traxxas in 2011, the Summit Kawasaki Limited Edition Rock Crawler - # 5607A - was a Special Edition, that was available exclusively from Kawasaki dealers throughout the USA. Boxed versions of this model are now highly collectable.

   Based on the 2010 Summit, the model came factory assembled RTR, with a Kawasaki pre-painted ProGraphix Bodyshell, a Titan 775 Motor, EVX-2 Forward / Reverse / Brake ESC, TQ 2.4Ghz Radio System, two 7-Cell NiMh Batteries and 10 LED Light System.

   For other Summit versions, Check out our Traxxas Archive.

   The 4WD model is shaft driven, on a molded tub chassis, with sealed limited slip T-Lock (remote locking) differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, Dual-CV telescoping axles and a full set of ball bearings.

Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition Rock Crawler - 5607A

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★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A Box ★
Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A Box
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A ★
Traxxas Summit
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A Chassis ★
Traxxas Summit Chassis
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A Chassis ★
Traxxas Summit Chassis
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A ★
Traxxas Summit
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A ★
Traxxas Summit
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A ★
Traxxas Summit
★ Traxxas Summit Kawasaki Edition - 5607A ★
Traxxas Summit
★ Traxxas Titan 775 Motor and EVX-2 ESC ★
Traxxas Titan 775 Motor and EVX-2 ESC

Buying a Used Traxxas Rock Crawler (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Traxxas Rock Crawler; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Traxxas website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rock Crawler you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Traxxas model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Traxxas models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Rock Crawler is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rock Crawler should be opened up to check for damaged gears and wear. If there is excessive backlash in the gearing, these should be replaced. A thin coat of grease on the gears is enough to allow smooth operation and reduce further wear.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Traxxas Rock Crawler comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.



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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, Traxxas, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Your First Race Meeting

   When you finally find a racing club near to where you live, that initial experience of stepping up onto the rostrum and looking down over the track can be very daunting. But soon, as the race starts, adrenaline will kick in and away you go. For the next five minutes, your focus is on nothing but getting your car around each corner, avoiding all the other cars on the track and just getting to the end of the race.

   Maybe your batteries dumped or you crashed and the car was damaged, perhaps you didn't actually come last, whatever happened, it doesn't really matter - you are well and truly hooked.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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