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1/10 Scale Electric Rock Crawler:

Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco (2021) - 92076-4 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Introduced by Traxxas in 2021, the "Scale and Trail" TRX-4 Ford Bronco 2021 Rock Crawler - # 92076-4 - came factory assembled RTR, with a choice of Red or Orange pre-painted Bronco Bodyshell, an XL-5 HV ESC, Titan 21T 550 Brushed Motor, Metal Gear Servo and TQi 2.4GHz Radio System. A Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   The 4WD model is shaft driven, on a front motor design steel frame chassis with floor pans and adjustable wheelbase, sealed limited slip T-Lock (remote locking) differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, hardened steel universal joint drive-shafts, slipper clutch, high/low transmission and a full set of ball bearings.

Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco Rock Crawler - 92076-4

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Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Box ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Box
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Box ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Box
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco Chassis
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco Chassis
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco Chassis
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco Chassis
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco - 92076-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Ford Bronco
★ Traxxas XL-5 HV ESC and Titan 21T 550 Motor ★
Traxxas XL-5 HV ESC and Titan 21T 550 Motor

Buying a Used Traxxas Rock Crawler (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Traxxas Rock Crawler; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Traxxas website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rock Crawler you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Traxxas model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Traxxas models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Rock Crawler is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rock Crawler should be opened up to check for damaged gears and wear. If there is excessive backlash in the gearing, these should be replaced. A thin coat of grease on the gears is enough to allow smooth operation and reduce further wear.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Traxxas Rock Crawler comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.



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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, Traxxas, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

The Importance of Balancing your Model Car Wheels

   The day I passed my driving test at the young age of 17, the first thing I did was to drive over to my girlfriends house and take her out to a long straight stretch of road close by, where the boy racers would often congregate. No one was around that day, so the road was relatively quiet. I slowly went through the gears and we were soon up to 65 with no problems, but as we got closer to 70, my hands began to sense a small vibration on the steering wheel. By the time we hit 75, the steering wheel and the whole car was vibrating wildly. My girlfriend was hysterical, screaming for me to "slow down!" I did of course and tried to calm her down.

   Back home I told my dad what had happened. He then reminded me that just the week before we had put on a new set of front tires and suggested the wheels were probably out of balance. Sure enough, after the wheels were re-balanced, at 85, 90, the car was steady as a rock and drove perfectly.

   As I got deeper into RC, that memory returned and I realised to be more competitive I would have to balance all my wheels.

How I Balanced my Model Car Wheels

   Wheel balancing equipment for RC cars is now available on line and from most RC model shops, but back then I had to make my own using the rear end of an old Tamiya F1 car.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Wheel Caster Explained

   Caster is basically the angle the steering kingpins or steering pivot points, leans back in relation to the horizontal when viewed from the side of the chassis.

   To test the effectiveness of your cars caster, place your model on a flat surface, point the front wheels straight ahead, and push the chassis over to one side to simulate body roll when cornering. You will notice that as the car leans over, all four wheels also lean over in the same direction. Tires provide the most grip when the wheels are perfectly vertical and the full width of each tire is flat on the ground. Body roll pushes the wheels past the vertical and reduces the amount of tire contact. Now, if you turn the front wheels as if cornering, and again push the chassis over, you will see that in this position, the front wheels are now more vertical, giving you better ground contact and therefore improved grip.

   Another effect of caster can be seen by disconnecting your steering servo and pushing your car along the floor. Because of caster and the kingpins leaning back, your car will naturally roll straight ahead.

   Obviously, the more body roll your car induces, the more positive caster you need to counter it.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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