Radio Controlled Models
Share RCScrapyard on Facebook
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags
RCScrapyard.net contains Google and Amazon Affiliate links, which may earn us commission. See our Disclosure page for more info.
bar

1/12 Scale Electric Rock Crawler:

ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 (Radio Controlled Model Review)



History and Info:

   Introduced by ECX circa 2018, the Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD Scaler Rock Crawler - ECX01013T1 / ECX01013IT1 - came RTR with a Dynamite Tazer 390 Brushed Motor, 60A ESC, Dynamite 900Mah Ni-MH Battery, Charger, 2.4Ghz Radio System and a Pre-Painted Blue Bodyshell (Specifications may vary from country to country).

   The plastic telescopic UJ shaft driven 4WD model is based on a steel ladder frame chassis, with locked differentials, front universal joint drive-shafts, multi link suspension, coil spring over oil filled dampers and ball bearings.

ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼








Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















Flags
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler Chassis ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler Chassis
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler Chassis ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler Chassis
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler Chassis ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler Chassis
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler Chassis ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler Chassis
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler Chassis ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler Chassis
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler Chassis ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler Chassis
★ ECX Barrage Gen2 1.55 Class 4WD - ECX01013T1 Rock Crawler ★
ECX Barrage Rock Crawler

Buying a Used ECX Rock Crawler (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used ECX Rock Crawler; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from ECX distributors websites, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rock Crawler you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used ECX model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those ECX models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Rock Crawler is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rock Crawler should be opened up to check for damaged gears and wear. If there is excessive backlash in the gearing, these should be replaced. A thin coat of grease on the gears is enough to allow smooth operation and reduce further wear.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used ECX Rock Crawler comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.



^ TOP ^












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, ECX, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Bearing Seals

   If you were to ask anyone with a modicum of experience in RC, they will tell you that the best modification you can make to a basic RC model, is to add a set of ball bearings.

   Quite a few of the entrance level models at the time this article was written, come with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings. If these bearings are installed in the model and coated with grease as advised in the car manual, dust and grit can be caught in that grease and be dragged into the bearing where it can abrade the shaft that spins in it and it won't be long before it becomes a very sloppy fit, causing all kinds of problems.

   But what should you look for when buying bearings? There are a number of types of seal used on ball bearings, and there is much debate concerning which is the best for RC.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Tire Compounds

   Way back in the early 1990s when I first got into RC, most of the off-road models available came with chunky hard compound block tires that gave little or no grip on grass or dirt tracks. On-road didn't have this problem as they were still using sponge tires that with a coating of wintergreen based tire additive before each race to improve grip. There was even one guy who swore, before every race, he dipped his wheels in a glass of light ale.

   Then things started to change. By the mid 1990s tire manufacturers such as Losi and Schumacher began developing smaller pin tires, in softer compounds. These mini pin versions were a revelation for grass racers, but were only a small improvement on dust tracks.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







RC Models:
Radio
& Motors:
Other
Accessories: