1/10 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:

HPI Nitro RS4 RTR - Dodge Viper GTS-R - # 574 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

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History and Info:

Introduced by HPI (Hobby Products International) in 2002, the Dodge Viper GTS-R - # 574 - came Ready To Run, based on a fully assembled Nitro RS4 RTR Touring Car Chassis, that was essentially a cut down version of the Nitro RS4-2 and came with a .15 Nitro Star Engine and Airtronics Radio System. A number of other bodyshell options were available (Check out our HPI Archive).

The 4WD HPI Racing model is belt driven, on a purple anodised alloy chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, fixed links (no turnbuckles) and a full set of ball bearings.

HPI Nitro RS4 RTR - Dodge Viper GTS-R - # 574

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To get the best from the HPI Nitro RS4, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.

Nitro RS4
Manual

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Radio Controlled Model Accessories:

★ HPI Racing Nitro RS4 RTR Chassis ★

★ HPI Racing Nitro RS4 RTR Chassis ★

Buying a Used HPI Nitro RS4
Touring Car (and What to look for)

There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used HPI Nitro RS4 Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the HPI website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
When you receive your used HPI Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

Next, for those HPI models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

If the body shell of your HPI Nitro RS4 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Nitro RS4 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

If you intend to race your Nitro RS4 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
The Nitro RS4 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

If body roll on your HPI Nitro RS4 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

If your used HPI Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

Finally, good luck with your Nitro RS4 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

RC Information and Advice:

Hints, Tips and Information

Choosing a Nitro Engine.

   Once you have made your choice of RC model, you need the right engine to get you where you want to be - out in front.

   Touring / Drift Cars: Nitro powered Touring cars require a specific ability. Your first consideration should be the tail pipe. A number of models will take only a rear tail pipe configuration, but the majority will accept the more conventional side pipe.

   Beginners should consider something with a moderate amount of power and a rotary carburettor for easier controlled handling. For top level tarmac track racing or those with more experience, look for an engine with good low end torque that has a slide valve carburettor to give you fast acceleration out of the corners.

   Trucks and Monster Trucks: Unlike on road Touring Cars, Off Road Trucks and Monster Trucks don't need that bottom end torque, unless you like to do wheelies. So something less powerful with a rotary carburettor will provide you with the smooth acceleration and less wheel spin required for controlled dirt track racing.

For other model types read the complete article ▶ ▶

Hints, Tips and Information

Toe Angle - for Steering and Straight Line Stability

   When you first build your RC model car, you will no doubt have made all the settings advised in the manufacturers' manual and will take it out on the back yard not thinking of things like camber, caster or toe-in - I know I did. It's only when you get competitive that you start learning about these things and just what a big difference they can make to the handling of your car. One of the more effective of these adjustments is Toe-in.

   The term, toe-in, toe-out, or toe-angle, refers to the alignment of the front or rear wheels, when viewed from above. Front toe-angle is easily adjusted via the track rods or turnbuckles that link to the steering mechanism or directly to the steering servo horn. At the rear, some models like the Schumacher Mi1 can be adjusted by turnbuckles, but most models, on and off-road, have a set of hub carriers to provide the desired toe angle.

   Front toe-in reduces steering when entering a corner, but improves steering response on corner exit under acceleration.

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