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1/8 Scale Nitro Truck/Truggy:
Himoto Shellshock - N8XT
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Introduced by Himoto Racing circa 2012, the 4WD Shellshock Truggy - # N8XT - came with a 3.5cc engine and 2.4Ghz radio system.
The model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with 3 x gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, rear dogbones, with front universal joint drive-shafts and ball bearings.
To race the Himoto Shellshock, it has to have the best settings for your driving style and provide you with excellent handling and stability. The smallest changes can make a huge difference in the way your car performs on the track and our comprehensive instructions will help you to find the best Set-up to get you where you want to be.
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★ Himoto Shellshock ★
★ Himoto Shellshock Chassis ★
★ Himoto Shellshock Chassis ★
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Buying a Used Himoto Shellshock Truggy (and What to look for)
Make a General Visual Inspection
Check the Body-Shell
If the body shell of your Himoto Shellshock is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Shellshock model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis. Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles
Examine the Drive System
The gearbox of your used Truggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Pinions and Spur Gears
Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints
Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Truggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. Steering Servo and Servo-Saver
Stabilizers
If body roll on your Himoto Shellshock is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. Don't Forget those Bearings
▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼
Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide
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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.
At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Choosing a Nitro Engine.
Once you have made your choice of RC model, you need the right engine to get you where you want to be - out in front.
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Hints, Tips and Information How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak PerformanceNi-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries
1/ All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.
Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries
1/ Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly. |
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