Team Associated RC10 Graphite (1989) 6025 / 6030

   Introduced by Team Associated in 1989, the RC10 Graphite was available in two kit forms: #6025 - with bushings, and #6035 - with ball bearings. Besides the rigid woven graphite chassis, a number of new and improved parts were produced, designed to entice the more competitive RC enthusiasts.



   This is one of a series of articles, aimed to provide information to help collectors and enthusiasts identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and show where it sits along its evolutionary trail.

1989 RC10 Graphite

   The RC10 Graphite self assembly model is gear driven, based on a one piece woven graphite plate chassis, and a bolt on alloy motor mount, with coil spring over oil filled dampers, a limited-slip VariLok ball differential, universal joint drive-shafts, low profile pneumatic tires, a Protech II bodyshell and either oilite bushings or a full set of ball bearings.

Model Versions:

• #6025 RC10 Graphite Kit, less all electrical, less ball bearings
• #6030 RC10 Graphite Kit, less all electrical, with ball bearings

Features:

• Limited-slip VariLok ball differential allows the outside rear wheel to turn slightly faster than the inside on the corner.
• Woven graphite chassis.
• New Rear hub carriers with more toe-in.
• Longer front arms with two new shock mounting positions.
• New front shock tower with new shock mounting positions.
• New rear universal-dogbone/stub axle.
• New idler gears, strengthened.
• New inline front axle and steering blocks.
• New low-profile front and rear wheels.
• New low-profile front and rear tires.
• New turnbuckles, front and rear, for easier adjustments.
• Unpainted wing and body.
• Associated stock motor.

The Graphite Chassis:

   Designed to be tough and rigid, the RC10 Graphite chassis was similar to the TQ10 chassis, but made of woven graphite and with a milled AE logo. Early versions of the chassis, without the logo and missing the two holes at the rear for the motor guard, are extremely rare an therefore highly collectable. The motor guard itself (#6311) had to be purchased separately.





   A number of different graphite weaves were used for the for the chassis over the years.



   The battery positioned along the length of the chassis, coupled with the VariLok ball differential and new rear hub carriers, provedes reduced body-roll and improved grip on corners.



   There is plenty of space each side of the chassis for the receiver and ESC.



   The kits also came with the original gold anodised dampers.



   The inline front axle and steering blocks give more posative steering responce and the turnbuckles allows for easy adjustment.



   More holes for damper adjustment were also provised with the new shock mounts.



   This was the first Associated RC10 model to come with Universal Joint Drive-Shafts (#6371).



   The Gearbox came with CNC (Computer Numerically Controlled) machined steel idle gears, a vast improvement over the original ones.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

Wheel Caster Explained

   Caster is basically the angle the steering kingpins or steering pivot points, leans back in relation to the horizontal when viewed from the side of the chassis.

   To test the effectiveness of your cars caster, place your model on a flat surface, point the front wheels straight ahead, and push the chassis over to one side to simulate body roll when cornering. You will notice that as the car leans over, all four wheels also lean over in the same direction. Tires provide the most grip when the wheels are perfectly vertical and the full width of each tire is flat on the ground. Body roll pushes the wheels past the vertical and reduces the amount of tire contact. Now, if you turn the front wheels as if cornering, and again push the chassis over, you will see that in this position, the front wheels are now more vertical, giving you better ground contact and therefore improved grip.

   Another effect of caster can be seen by disconnecting your steering servo and pushing your car along the floor. Because of caster and the kingpins leaning back, your car will naturally roll straight ahead.

   Obviously, the more body roll your car induces, the more positive caster you need to counter it.