Team Associated RC10 World's Car (2014) - 6002

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2014, this replica RC10 World's Car - # 6002 - is essentially a re-release of the original Brian Kinwald 1993 IFMAR World Championship winning car, with a few upgrades to allow for LiPo batteries and brushless motors.

   A pre-assembled Limited Edition RC10 World's Car Race Roller - # 6002RR - was also available.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

2014 RC10 World's Car Kit

   The RC10 Worlds replica is based on a hard anodised milled alloy plate chassis, with a ball differential, stealth gearbox, V2 coil spring over oil filled threaded dampers, CVA drive-shafts, turnbuckles and a full set of ball bearings.

Model Versions:

• #6002 RC10 World's Car Kit
• #6002RR Limited Edition RC10 Worlds Car Race Roller

Features:

• Pre-assembled (Race Roller)
• Black, hard-anodized 6061-T6 machined aluminum monocoque chassis
• Stealth 3-gear transmission with ball differential
• V2 slipper assembly with molded gear cover
• 16 precision ball bearings included
• Turbo Mirage body, 5.5" wing, and replica vintage decals
• V2 threaded hard anodized 6061-T6 aluminum coil over shocks with molded bleeder caps
• Independent suspension with durable long front arms and refined geometry
• In-line aluminum front axles and 30-degree caster blocks
• Fiber composite shock towers and battery strap
• Graphite transmission brace
• Updated CVA axle drivetrain
• World's Car bellcrank steering
• 2.2" one-piece wheels
• Steel turnbuckles

2014 RC10 World's Car:

  RC10 World's Car (2014) Box Art - # 6002.

2014 RC10 World's Car Chassis:

   RC10 World's Car Hard Anodised Alloy Plate Chassis.





   Front Shock Mount with V2 Threaded Dampers.



   Rear Shock Mount and Gear Cover.





   Battery Strap.



   Brushless Motor.



   V2 Threaded Hard Anodized 6061-T6 Dampers.



   RC10 World's Car Bellcrank Steering.



   Front Axle and 30 degree Caster Block.



   Slipper Clutch.

Limited Edition RC10 Worlds Car Race Roller - #6002RR:

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.