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1/10 Scale Nitro Truck/Truggy:
HSP Gladiator - 94110 - Radio Controlled ModelHistory and Info:
Introduced by HSP Racing circa 2002, the 4WD Gladiator Truggy - # 94110 - shares a number of its parts with their 1/10 Nitro Buggy version, and came with a number of bodyshell options and disc brake system.
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★ HSP Gladiator 94110 ★
★ HSP Gladiator 94110 Chassis ★
★ HSP Gladiator 94110 Chassis Upgrade Options ★
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Buying a Used HSP Gladiator Truggy (and What to look for)
Make a General Visual Inspection
Check the Body-Shell
If the body shell of your HSP Gladiator is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Gladiator model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis. Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles
Examine the Drive System
The gearbox of your used Truggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Pinions and Spur Gears
Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints
Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Truggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. Steering Servo and Servo-Saver
Stabilizers
If body roll on your HSP Gladiator is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. Don't Forget those Bearings
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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide
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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.
At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Getting into RC
When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Bearing Seals
If you were to ask anyone with a modicum of experience in RC, they will tell you that the best modification you can make to a basic RC model, is to add a set of ball bearings. |
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