1/8 Scale Electric Formula One Car:

Kyosho Williams Renault FW14 EP - 4246
Radio Controlled Model

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History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho in 1992, the Williams Renault FW14 EP Formula 1 Racing Car - # 4246 - was based on the car driven by Nigel Mansell and Riccardo Patrese in the 1991 F1 Championship, finishing a creditable 2nd in the Constructors' Championship with one hundred and twenty five points. The following year, with the FW14B version of the car, Nigel Mansell won his first and only Drivers Championship title.

   The unassembled kit came with an unpainted polycarbonate Bodyshell, a Mega Outlaw Stock Motor, and molded plastic Wheels with foam Tires. A Radio System, ESC, Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   Now considered rare, all the early 1990s Kyosho F1 RC models are much sought after by ardent collectors the world over.

   Check out our Kyosho Archive for other F1 models.

Kyosho Williams Renault FW14 EP F1 Car - 4246

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The 2WD model is based on a two piece FRP/alloy plate chassis (with room for two Electric Motors to be installed), front and rear double wishbone suspension with inboard coil spring over oil filled dampers (front - laydown, rear - upright), a gear type differential, anti-roll bars, dogbone drive-shafts and sintered bronze bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can abrade the metal shafts that spins in them. If you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel ball bearings ASAP.

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Radio Controlled Model Accessories:

★ Kyosho Williams Renault FW14 EP - 4246 ★

★ Kyosho Williams Renault FW14 EP - Chassis ★

★ Kyosho Williams Renault FW14 EP - Chassis ★

Buying a Used Radio Controlled Model
(General Information and Advice)

There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used RC model; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage car. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the manufacturers website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
When you receive your used model, inspect the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

If your model comes with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

A broken, ripped or damaged bodyshell, can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue (I use Shoe Goo). Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
Examine the drive-shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium, some cheap steel drive-shafts wear and bend far too easily.

If you intend to race your model at a competitive level, for strength and weight reduction, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

On gear driven models, open the gearbox to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back-yard, for racing at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Drive Belt driven models need them checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If considered necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than approximately 5mm. Also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The pulley teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine or Electric Motor in position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur-gear. To minimise this problem, if possible, fit bolts with locking nuts to the mount, and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

Ball joints always cause problems. For top level racing, all plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
The steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

If your used model comes with plastic or sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run by the previous owner with bushings installed, you may have to change all the axles and drive-shafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

Finally, good luck with your RC model and good racing.

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

RC Information and Advice:

Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.

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