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Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang - Full Option Kit - # 56039 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/16 Scale Electric Tank -


  Released by Tamiya in September 2016, the Jagdpanzer IV /70(V) Lang tank destroyer (#56039) is the Full Option Kit version.

  A front-mounted double gearbox, with two electric motors, operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang - # 56039

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  The German AFV, proved formidable following its introduction late in WWII. The "Lang" (German for "long") in its name was added to distinguish it from its predecessor with a shorter L/48 7.5cm gun; the design featuring a wedge-shaped glacis plate and utilizing the Pz.Kpfw. IV chassis was largely shared by the L/48 and L/70 varieties. 930 Jadgpanzer IV /70(V) Langs were produced between August 1944 and March 1945 and fought bravely in last-gasp actions such as along the Ardennes front from December 1944.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang
Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) Lang

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Emergency Plastic Part Repairs

   It always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks, and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on.

   So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it, and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now?

   Some kind of repair is your only option.

   The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Ride Height

   To allow the suspension on any RC model to do its work properly, it needs to ride in a position where it is able to react to any bumps and holes it may encounter on the track. Therefore, it needs to be adjusted to somewhere in-between those limits. That position is commonly termed "ground clearance" or "ride height" and is generally measured as the distance between the underside of the chassis and the ground, with the motor and battery etc installed.

   Simply speaking, determining the optimum ride height is dependent on the specific track conditions and "droop" setting (see my previous article). For Off Road models the rule is simple, the bigger the bumps and the deeper the holes, the higher the ride height. And for On Road, the lower the ride height, the better.

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