Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank - 48204 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/35 Scale Electric Tank -


  Released by Tamiya on March 19, 2002, the 1/35 R/C Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank (#48204) came with a 2-channel radio system and is driven by 2 motors, allowing realistic tank movement, forward, reverse, running and pivoting. Motors, battery case, switch, pilot lamp and receiver antenna lead are pre-wired. Buttons on bottom left or transmitter control right/left turret rotation. 4 x UM-4 (AAA) batteries provide 25 minutes of continuous running time.

Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank - # 48204

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  The Leopard 2 was first produced in 1979 and is in service with the armies of Austria, Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Sweden and Spain with over 3000 produced. The Leopard 2 A5 version employs cutting-edge armor technology and is currently considered to be one of the top tanks in the world.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank
Tamiya Leopard 2 A5 Main Battle Tank

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Electric Motors for RC Models

Winds and Turns

Q/  What does 15x2 or 17x3 mean?
A/  The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times.

Q/  What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)?
A/  A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means high current draw from the batteries which corresponds to less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for tracks with lots of corners and short straights where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion)
Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion). This is correct for Brushed, Modified and Stock Motors as well as Brushless Motors.

Q/  How do the number of winds effect a motor?

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Hints, Tips and Information

Efficient Soldering

   In the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering.

   For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, as you advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is.

   Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC.

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