Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Nitro Racing Car:

Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 (GP-10) - 31711 / 31712 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1996, the Porsche 911 GT-1, was available with a GS-11X Engine custom-designed muffler - # 31711, or without and Engine - #-31712. The model was based on the Pure-10 GP Spider Touring Car Chassis, and came as an unassembled kit, with a clear lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell, requiring a Radio System and Fuel to be purchased separately.

   The 4WD PureTen GP Spider is belt driven, on an alloy plate double deck chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over friction dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and ball bearings.

   Check out our Kyosho Archive for other PureTen GP Spider chassis based models.

Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To get the best from the Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.







Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Box ★
Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Box
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 ★
Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 ★
Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 - 31711 - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider Chassis
★ Kyosho GS-11X Engine ★
Kyosho GS-11X Engine

Buying a Used Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1
Racing Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 Nitro Racing Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Racing Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Racing Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Porsche 911 GT-1 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Porsche 911 GT-1 Racing Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Racing Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Racing Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Racing Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Racing Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Porsche 911 GT-1 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho Porsche 911 GT-1 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Racing Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Porsche 911 GT-1 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Painting a Lexan Body Shell.

   Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside, and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used.

   The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour, and add some choice decals later.

   This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before, and need some basic guidance.


   Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can.

   Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen.
Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Emergency Plastic Part Repairs

   It always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks, and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on.

   So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it, and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now?

   Some kind of repair is your only option.

   The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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