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Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Racing Car - Group-C Chassis:


  Originally released by Tamiya in 1985 on the RM Mk.5 Chassis (# 50042), the Porsche 956, on November 9, 2024, was released on the Group-C Chassis - # 47508. The lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell is an accurate representation of the Porsche 956 car that won the 1982 manufacturers and drivers titles in the World Endurance Championship, and in the 1983 WEC won all seven races.

Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C

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  Based on the configuration of the Tamiya F1 cars of the 1990s, the Group-C is based on an ABS tub chassis, with an FRP front plate and T-Bar, a motor pod with a solid axle, ball differential, kingpin and coil spring front and T-Bar with CVA coil spring over oil filled damper rear suspension, sponge tires, 540 motor and bushings. A Radio System, ESC, Battery, Charger and Paint to be purchased separately.

  Like the majority of Tamiya models, this model comes with plastic bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually abrade the metal drive shafts - our recommendation is that these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C
★ Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C ★
Tamiya Porsche 956 - 47508 - Group-C

Buying a Used Tamiya Porsche 956
Racing Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Porsche 956 Electric Racing Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Racing Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Racing Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Porsche 956 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Porsche 956 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Porsche 956 Racing Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Racing Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Racing Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Racing Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Racing Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Porsche 956 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya Porsche 956 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Racing Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Porsche 956 model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Look after your Gears

   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric.

   The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch.

   The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gear teeth are larger than 64dp gear teeth, therefore the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys, to help them withstand the knocks and crashes by drivers new to RC, and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

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