Radio Controlled Models
Share RCScrapyard on Facebook
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags
RCScrapyard.net contains Google and Amazon Affiliate links, which may earn us commission. See our Disclosure page for more info.
bar

Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - 58670 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Rally Car - M-05Ra Chassis:


  Released by Tamiya on August 10, 2019, the Citroen 2CV Rally kit - #58670, is No.670 in their Electric RC Car Series, based on the M-05Ra chassis. The bodyshell in this kit was previously used for the Citroen 2CV Charleston (#58655). Much loved by many the world over, the Citroen 2CV was in production between 1948 and 1990, with over 3.5 million manufactured.

  A 540 motor and ESC are provided in the kit, but a radio system, battery and charger are required to complete (specifications differ from country to country).

Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra #58670

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼



  To upgrade the M-05 Chassis for Rally car racing, Tamiya designed a new front bumper, side bumpers and uprights for protection and strength, then produced 60D Rally-Block Tires for the small wheels.

  Other than that, The 2WD, FWD (front wheel drive) M05Ra Chassis is exactly the same as the M-05 with its low centre of gravity and good weight distribution which coupled with four wheel independent double wishbone suspension, coil spring over friction shock absorbers, orbital bevel gear differential and bell crank steering gives excellent stability and handling on high speed corners.

  The M05Ra Chassis has three possible wheelbase options: The basic 210mm, 225mm and 239mm, that are set by changing the position of the rear suspension parts.

  Plastic bush type bearings are supplied with this model, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually abrade the metal drive shafts - our recommendation is that these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

  To get the best from the Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned, for smooth acceleration under control and handle corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors





















Flags


Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya Citroen 2CV Rally - M-05Ra Chassis
Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis

Buying a Used Tamiya Citroen 2CV
Rally Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Citroen 2CV Electric Rally Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rally Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Rally Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Citroen 2CV is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Citroen 2CV model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Citroen 2CV Rally Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Rally Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Rally Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Rally Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Rally Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Citroen 2CV steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya Citroen 2CV is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Rally Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Citroen 2CV model and good racing.

▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide



















Tamiya Buggys Tamiya Trucks Tamiya Monster Trucks Tamiya Rock Crawlers Tamiya Off Road Chassis Types Tamiya Touring Car Tamiya Drift Car Tamiya WRC Car Tamiya M Chassis
Tamiya Tractor Trucks Tamiya Touring Car Chassis Tamiya F1 Tamiya F1/Le Mans Chassis Types Tamiya Military Tamiya Tanks


















Hints, Tips and Information

Make your RC Model Ball Bearings Work for You

   If you are serious about your racing, looking after your bearings is essential if you are to remain competitive.
   My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC.

   Shields: The main problem with Ball Bearing Shields is they create friction, and obviously the more you can reduce friction, the more efficient your bearings will be, so here's a tip that does just that.
   Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, positioned side by side. If you think about it, the two inside shields on each bearing are not required, so ... you can remove them using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple. And in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Efficient Soldering

   In the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering.

   For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, as you advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is.

   Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







^ TOP ^

RC Models:
Radio
& Motors:
Other
Accessories: