Tamiya German Panther Type G - 48205 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

  Released by Tamiya on March 18, 2008, the 1/35 R/C German Panther Type G Late Version (#48205) came with new parts for lower hull to enable installation of running gear and internal mechanics, Newly-developed FM 27MHz R/C system enables forward/reverse, right/left turning, pivot turning, turret rotation and gun elevation, all controlled via directional pads on the included transmitter. 4 frequencies included (26.995, 27.045, 27.145, 27.195). Compact gearbox with 90:1 gear ratio controls both tracks for realistic tank movement. Compact receiver included. 006P(9V)/6F22 battery for transmitter and four R03/AAA/UM4 batteries for the tank separately required. High level of detail including hull-mounted tools and cables, late type main gun mantlet and turret mounted machine gun, just like the static model version.

  At the beginning of WWII, German tanks were defeated by Russian T-34 medium tanks and in order to counter them, Germany created the Panther V and were deployed to frontlines in 1943. It featured excellent defensive abilities, had sloped armour plates, powered by a 700ps Maybach HL230P30 4-stroke V12 gasoline engine which provided them with a top speed of 55km/h.

  It was armed with a 70 calibre 7.5cm long barrelled tank gun which was as powerful as the Tiger It's 8.8cm gun. Evolved from the Type D and A, the Panther Type G was put into production from March 1944.

  Later in 1944, the Type G received more extensive modifications which included an angle-bottomed gun mantled, exhausts with flame dampers and heater units on top of the engine grilles. Overall 2,953 Panther Gs were produced until the final factory was captured by Allied forces in April 1945. The Panther G went on to serve as Germany's main battle tank until the end of the war.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

Rating: 4 RCScrapyard

Rechargeable Batteries
for RC Models

   At the time this article was written, there are four types of Rechargeable Batteries that are commonly in use for Radio Controlled Models.
Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries have been around the longest. My first stick battery, purchased way back in 1987 was rated at 1200Mah (Mili Amp Hours) and with a silver can 27 Turn motor my Tamiya Boomerang would run around in the back yard for a good seven minutes before slowly coming to a stop. Ni-Cad development continued until around 1998 to a maximum rating of around 2000Mah and matchers pack builders and battery technicians were able to put together six cell packs with voltages approaching 7.4 Volts, to give those that could afford them, an edge over the rest.

   Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries came along in the late 1990s, and by the year 2000 were available at ratings up to 3000Mah. Again, matchers and pack builders worked hard to provide the ardent racer with packs to provide that little bit of extra power, and ESC manufacturers also chipped in with improved controllers to take full advantage of this new technology.

   Now the problem wasn't gearing the car to get to the end of the race using the available battery power, but to find the brushed motor that could handle gear setting that provided the speed and acceleration without the motor overheating and wearing the commutator too much so it needed a skim after every 2 runs. My favourite at that time was the 9 Double.

   More recently, Li-Po (Lithium-Polymer) Batteries have appeared on the scene, providing are a huge step forward in performance when compared with Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh batteries.

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.