Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank - Full Option Kit - # 56037 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/16 Scale Electric Tank -


  Released by Tamiya in January 2015, the Japan Ground Self Defence Force Type 10 Tank (#56037) is the Full Option Kit version.

  A front-mounted double gearbox, incorporating 3 gear type differentials, with two electric motors, operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank - # 56037

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  The Type 10, was the high-tech modern addition to the Japan Ground Self Defence Force (JGSDF) and was loaded with state-of-the-art features such as a newly-designed 120mm smooth-bore main gun and modular armor. It was built to a relatively small and lightweight design for suitability of use in the mountainous Japanese archipelago and offers excellent speed and manoeuvrability. Perhaps most importantly, it was also designed to be compatible with the modern C4I communications network system. Deployment commenced in 2012.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Electric Motors for RC Models

Winds and Turns

Q/  What does 15x2 or 17x3 mean?
A/  The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times.

Q/  What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)?
A/  A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means high current draw from the batteries which corresponds to less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for tracks with lots of corners and short straights where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion)
Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion). This is correct for Brushed, Modified and Stock Motors as well as Brushless Motors.

Q/  How do the number of winds effect a motor?

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Hints, Tips and Information

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.

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