Tamiya Russian Medium Tank T-34-85 - 48216 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

  Released by Tamiya on February 20, 2021, the 1/35 R/C Russian Medium Tank T-34-85 (# 48216), is a re-release, with upgraded TTU-10 Radio and MC-07 Control Unit.

  Sold as an unassembled kit, this RC tank has two drive motors and two turret control unit motors, with four forward and reversel speed options, transmitter operated, plus left/right turning, sharp turning and pivoting, as well as turret rotation and main gun elevation/depression control.

  Russian T-34-85 tanks forced the invading German forces to develop the Tiger and Panther tanks to counter its strength. It was armed with a powerful 85mm gun and featured heavy armor with a large-sized cast turret. Powering this lightweight tank was a 500ps V12 liquid-cooled diesel engine that enabled great mobility. From the end of 1943 to June 1945, approximately 29,000 units were produced and continued to serve as Russia's main battle tank alongside the T-34-76 until the end of the war.

Rating: 4 RCScrapyard

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.