Team Associated RC10T - 7035 - Radio Controlled Model

   Introduced by Team Associated in 1993, the RC10T Team Truck - # 7035 - was the replacement for the RC10T Team - # 7014 - and came after Brian Kinwald raced his RC10T to win both the 1991 and 1992 NORRCA Nationals and Mark Pavidis won the 1992 ROAR Truck Nationals. The new version had a number of parts from their Team Trucks to keep it competitive, and was the last of their 2WD Truck series to use the familiar formed alloy tub chassis.

   The RC10T Team Truck is based on a black anodised alloy tub chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled teflon coated dampers, universal joint drive-shafts, slipper clutch, stelth transmission and a full set of ball bearings.

   Early versions of the RC10T Team came with the "B" stamp chassis, cream nylon parts and two hole front and rear shock towers, Later versions have a "C" stamp chassis, front shock tower with three holes, rear with four holes, a graphite gearbox brace and black plastic parts.

Model Version:

• #7035 RC10T Team Kit, less radio system, battery and all electrical

Features:

• New shock pistons
• New heavy duty shock towers
• Stealth Tranmission - the best!
• New universal dogbone rear axles with new rear arm mounts and hub carriers
• Lightweight one-piece front and rear wheels
• high-bite, multi-surface wide front tires
• Black anodized chassis
• 30 deg. caster front carrier blocks
• Heavy duty front and rear arms
• Championship-winning, hard-anodized, PTFE-coated shocks
• New, slightly narrower body

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Slipper Clutch and Hydra-Drive

   More often installed on Off-Road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor.

   The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount.

   Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference.

Roll Center

   One of the least understood settings on RC model cars is concept of roll center. The simple definition of roll center is a point in space that the chassis rolls from side to side as the car maneuvers around a corner.

   To calculate roll center you have to consider things like the height of the axles, the inside and outside camber link positioning, the length of the suspension arms and the location of their inside pivot point. Sounds complicated doesn't it - and in truth - it is.

   On all RC model cars, most of the cars weight is above the chassis and the center of gravity of the car is not only from front to rear, but also from top to bottom. This point is called the "true" center of gravity and is the point around which the weight of the car will want to roll from side to side, but it is the roll center of the chassis that the chassis will actually roll around, not the center of gravity.

   Once you have determined the positions of roll center and center of gravity, you can calculate the "roll moment". It is this that determines how easily the chassis will roll from side to side.

The Effect of Roll Center on your Car

   But what does all this mean? I hear you ask. Well, it gives you some insight to what changing the position of your camber links can do to the way your car handles.