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Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric M-Chassis Model Car - M-06 Chassis:


  Released by Tamiya on July 9, 2022, the Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - # 58708 - based on the short wheelbase M-06 Chassis. This same Bodyshell was previously available on the M-02 (# 58168) and the M-05Ra Chassis (# 58471), but this time with 1973 German circuit race winner Jagermeister livery.

  The unassembled kit includes a clear lexan Bodyshell, a 540 Motor and ESC, with a Radio System, Battery, Charger and Paint to be purchased separately. (specifications differ from country to country).

Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708 - M-06

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  The M-06 employs a braced plastic tub chassis design with an overhanging rear mounted motor, orbital gear differential, shotgun style stick battery positioned longitudinally along the centre line of the chassis and four coil spring over friction shock absorbers. Three wheelbase settings for this chassis are possible: standard 210mm, medium 225mm and long 239mm.

  I have two upgrades I recommend for this model. The kit comes with plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings, that if installed, when dust and grit get into them, will abrade the drive shafts that spin in them - These should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings before initial assembly. The second upgrade is a set of oil filled dampers in place of the friction ones.

  With these hop-ups, the chassis performed well, although it did show a certain amount of under-steer that was soon resolved with a change of springs and oil weight.

  To get the best from the Tamiya M-06 Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya Alpine A110 Jagermeister 1973 - 58708
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis
Tamiya M06 Chassis

Buying a Used Tamiya M-06
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya M-06 Electric Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya M-06 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your M-06 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your M-06 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The M-06 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya M-06 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your M-06 model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Make your RC Model Ball Bearings Work for You

   If you are serious about your racing, looking after your bearings is essential if you are to remain competitive.
   My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC.

   Shields: The main problem with Ball Bearing Shields is they create friction, and obviously the more you can reduce friction, the more efficient your bearings will be, so here's a tip that does just that.
   Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, positioned side by side. If you think about it, the two inside shields on each bearing are not required, so ... you can remove them using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple. And in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Look after your Gears

   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric.

   The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch.

   The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gear teeth are larger than 64dp gear teeth, therefore the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys, to help them withstand the knocks and crashes by drivers new to RC, and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

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