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Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 (Gunmetal Edition) - 56376 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/14 Scale Electric Tractor Truck - TT Chassis


  Released by Tamiya on December 7, 2024, the Scania 770 S 8x4/4 (Gunmetal Edition) - # 56376 - is an 8-wheel heavy Trailer Truck, with 2 front axle steering and 2 rear axle drive. Double tread tires are used to complete the realistic look of this impressively detailed scale model.

Tamiya 770 S 8x4/4 - 56376

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  The double shaft driven model is based on a rigid alloy ladder frame, with rear twin axle, gear type differentials, leaf-spring suspension, friction dampers and 3-speed gearbox. A 4-channel radio system, servos, battery, charger and ESC or MFC-03 (recommended) to be purchased separately.

  A 540 brushed Motor is included, along with Plastic bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Gearbox
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Gearbox
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Gearbox
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Chassis

Buying a Used Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4
Tractor Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Electric Tractor Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Tractor Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Tractor Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Scania 770 S 8x4/4 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Scania 770 S 8x4/4 Tractor Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Tractor Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Tractor Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Tractor Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Tractor Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Scania 770 S 8x4/4 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya Scania 770 S 8x4/4 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Tractor Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Scania 770 S 8x4/4 model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.



Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

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