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Tamiya TLT-1 Rock Buster - 47201 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/18 Scale Electric Rock Crawler - TLT-1 Chassis:


  Released by Tamiya on December 17, 2003, the 4WD TLT-1 (Tamiya Little Truck) Rock Buster (#47201) is one of their Little Gear Series, designed to use 540 electric motors and standard size ESC, Servos and radio system. A Rock Buster Combo (#47201c) was also available and in 2006 an Online Limited Sales Series Rock Buster (#23635) Factory Finished, Limited Edition was introduced.

Tamiya TLT-1 Rock Buster - TLT-1 # 47201

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  The shaft/belt driven model is based on a vertical alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, a central ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

  Like most Tamiya kits the model comes with plastic and sintered metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them. If your model is for racing seriously, these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings.

  To get the best from the Tamiya TLT-1 Rock Buster, it needs to be fine tuned to handle jumps under control and has enough grip to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya TLT-1 - Chassis
Tamiya TLT-1 Chassis
Tamiya TLT-1 - Chassis
Tamiya TLT-1 Chassis
Tamiya TLT-1 - Chassis
Tamiya TLT-1 Chassis

Buying a Used TLT-1 Rock Buster Rock Crawler (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used TLT-1 Rock Buster Rock Crawler; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rock Crawler you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used TLT-1 Rock Buster model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those TLT-1 Rock Buster models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Rock Crawler is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rock Crawler should be opened up to check for damaged gears and wear. If there is excessive backlash in the gearing, these should be replaced. A thin coat of grease on the gears is enough to allow smooth operation and reduce further wear.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used TLT-1 Rock Buster Rock Crawler comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.




















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Hints, Tips and Information

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs, and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   You will need a jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side, then using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Next, with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Tires for Off-Road RC Models

   If you only ever intend to race your Buggy, Truggy or Truck at your local track each week end, you will soon learn the best tire - insert combination for your particular model on that specific track surface type. But if you ever visit other tracks in your area, or move on to the national or international race meetings, at other tracks throughout the country, you will soon discover that your trusty setup will not work as well, and you will be forced to invest in many more sets of wheels and tires.

   The choice of Off-Road tires available is mind boggling, and the combinations of Mini-Pin, Micro-Pin, Block, Stud and Ribbed Tires, with all the various types of foam inserts available is a mine field, even for the more experienced.

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